Sunday, June 16, 2019

At Pitti Immagine Uomo, Searching for Emotion and Soulful Fashion

At Pitti Immagine Uomo, the biannual men’s trade fair held in Florence, Italy, now in its 96th edition, the central focus is typically on the guest designers who flock from around the globe vying for the attention of the international press and buyers. In the past, the event has attracted the likes of J.W. Anderson, Raf Simons, Virgil Abloh’s Off-White. 

Three native Italian brands chose Pitti Uomo in lieu of the ongoing Milan Fashion Week, leaving the schedule rather parse. However, a slot at Pitti Uomo maximises brands’ opportunities to receive much-needed attention. But did they move audiences?

The first attempt was Salvatore Ferragamo, set against the palatial backdrop of the Piazza della Signoria. Models circled the Fountain of Neptune, which Ferragamo recently helped restore, ‘as a mark of gratitude to the city of Florence.’ Ferragamo’s mainstay is Milan Fashion Week but the Pitti show was a homecoming. Ferragamo was founded in Florence in 1927, the eponymous founder died there in 1960, and the brand’s headquarters remain there.
Salvatore Ferragamo
British designer Paul Andrew oversees creative direction across the brand’s womenswear and menswear lines. This Florentine outing featured both lines which coexist beautifully in the same universe, a marvellous feat for a luxury house. The clothes fused workwear and formal principles in a varied palette that began with pale blues and earthy tones before progressing into shots of sky blue, lavender, and burgundy. The statue of Napoleon is reworked, appearing on lightweight shirts. Andrew, and his menswear assistant, Guillaume Meilland, played things safe. The edit was sharp, the clothes were nice, but the overall presentation could’ve done with some more emotion.  

Celebrating his tenth anniversary, Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM benefits from a happy-go-lucky, endearingly quirky sensibility, and hence the show emanated a sort of bubbly charm. His menswear is punchy, fun―he doesn’t shy away from elaborate allover floral prints and explosive tie-dyes but he doesn’t simplify the presentation in terms of streetwear, either. MSGM is predominately rooted in tailoring, not streetwear, the clothes are jovial but he takes his clientele serious. For spring, he proposed brightly-coloured suiting, tie-dye sportswear, and light-wash denim. The finale consisted of scantily-clad models in t-shirts and briefs, a vision of the after-after party along the coast of an Adriatic town, from where Giorgetti hails. In that respect, things felt personal. 
In the rarified world of Marco de Vincenzo, tinged with a film-noir aesthetic, explorations of fabrication and silhouette have long been a personal project but, this season, his tenth anniversary and menswear debut, things were distilled to the point of sobriety. Yet his chequered suiting and high-waisted denim had soul.
Marco de Vincenzo
For Claire Waight Keller’s first full menswear collection for Givenchy, she channeled the soul and spirit of France and Seoul, South Korea. ‘We call it Nouveau Glitch, this fusion of Old and New World aesthetics. Baudelaire and then Asian street style now. The Art Nouveau with a post-internet glitch,’ said Clare Waight Keller of her early-00s-inspired outing. An international endeavour, Waight Keller, a British woman at a historic French house, showing in Italy, inspired by Asian cultures, the smorgasbord of cultural touchstones bled into something that was captured the spirit of Givenchy as it is today: distinctly French with an international appeal. 

She melded the formality of tailoring with the urbane reality of streetwear and sportswear. The ensuing collection could’ve used a sharper edit but Waight Keller’s desire to reflect the shifting landscape of masculinity could be deemed fresh. From her takes on oversized tailoring to the contrast of floral-printed vest tops with tracksuit pants, it was imbued with an air of modernity. She counterbalanced the tailoring’s elegance with an Onitsuka Tiger collaboration. In order to modernise Givenchy, and to connect with the style-savvy Asian customer, this collaboration made perfect sense. 

This iteration of Givenchy men’s looked like a polished take on what has come before. What it could’ve used was the same drama that Waight Keller exercised in her Fall 2019 men’s capsule―paying homage to the 1970s sleaze of New York City. Here, that was reduced to a few looks but the most impactful: a black coat with intricate embroidery slung over a sinewy model in white high-waisted trousers, a skinny silk scarf wrapped insouciantly around his neck. That was beautiful, daring. 
Hailed by journalist Suzy Menkes as ‘the best new-person collection I have ever seen,’ American multimedia artist Sterling Ruby issued his namesake stamp on fashion. In the past, Ruby has collaborated with Raf Simons during his stints at Christian Dior and Calvin Klein. Now, Ruby, who has been sewing since adolescence, has launched S.R. Studio. LA. CA. Described as ‘autobiographical, a chart through cloth of Ruby’s life, influences, fantasies and realities: his story,’ the unisex show touched upon Amish and Mennonite dress (see voluminous dresses, knit sweaters), from Ruby’s childhood spent in rural Pennsylvania, to his career as an artist in Los Angeles (paint-splatter and neon acid-wash denim). The personal element struck a chord, rethinking the pretension commonly associated with art and fashion as creative mediums.

Ruby’s entrance into the world of fashion - notwithstanding his previous collaborations - would hopefully serve as a precursor to a wider cultural shift in the fashion industry. As an artist, Ruby understands the concept of making, the artistic process, and the value of creation leading to a valuable outcome, rather than something solely driven by monetary gain. The dynamic collection, charting the familiar ground of Americana, wasn’t revolutionary but the idea is one that could revolutionise fashion: Ruby doesn’t intend to follow the conventional fashion cycle (some pieces are already available online; other items will follow later; there is no plan for the next show)―he’s playing it by ear. Where better to show than at Pitti, where anything is possible. By pushing against the binary fashion system, thinking on a collection-by-collection basis, the quality of the fashion, one would hope, will be stronger, more considered and inspiring. His debut, in that respect, was thrilling. Fashion and the art of making, front and centre. How it should be. 
SR Studio. LA. CA.
All images: Vogue Runway


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