Eudon Choi’s Spring 2019 collection at London Fashion Week spanned 40 looks but he could’ve gotten the message across in 25. They were forty highly-detailed, considered looks but at 9 am on a Saturday morning, the weight of it was a bit smothering. It’s not to say Choi is not a good designer—rather he’s quite talented and he’s typically at his sharpest when he looks to architects for inspiration. This season’s peregrination took him to India and the work of Ivan da Silva Bruhns.
Choi looked modernist Palace of Manik Bagh (‘Gardens of Rubies’ is the English translation), the home of the Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holka II of Indore, where da Silva Bruhn’s had designed carpets. Like Choi, the theme da Silva Bruhns explored was deconstruction.
The clothes were influenced by this and his unique blend of da Silva Bruhn’s cubist and Art Deco tendencies. Choi juxtaposed the rigour of formal tailoring with the ease of summery clothing—pinstripes met kaftans, trench coats became blouses. The above elements were exceptionally and imaginative, you wanted to see more permutations.
The broad colour palette encompassed (a delicious shade of) mandarin, aubergine, duck egg and cobalt. The South Korean designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins contrasted block colours with parallel contours and graphic patterns. To reiterate, it was 9 am on a Saturday morning. An edited display of 25 looks would’ve sufficed. Between the multiple points of reference, the patterns, and a coterie of models walking towards you at high speed, it was hard to focus on the finer details, the roots of the inspiration.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com