Monday, October 15, 2018

Hermès is One of the Places the Philophiles Will Be Going

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is the woman behind Hermès’ women’s ready-to-wear line. She’s a French designer with a resume that includes The Row and Céline. She understands quiet luxury. No frills. No fuss. Classicism comes first. However, the 181-year-old brand is primarily known for its leather goods and silk scarves. The ready-to-wear, thanks to Vanhee-Cybulski’s point of view, is beginning to gain traction. 

She took the Spring 2019 show to the Longchamp Racecourse but eschewed from the obvious equestrian references. It was an elegant display of vacation-ready ease, brightly-hued separates, and elevated athleisure.

One thing is for sure: Vanhee-Cybulski solved some of the problems faced by the Philophiles—the group of women loyal to Phoebe Philo, the former artistic director at Céline—and their penchant for the clothing that understands them while serving its purpose as cloth. For the clothing that transcends fickle trends and endures fashion. 

When Phoebe Philo left Céline, the French house she redefined in her own image  with clothes that put women’s lives first with compassion and style, shoppers were left asking ‘who?’ Who would they turn to for quiet luxury? Journalist Kate Finnegan investigated some accessible—Céline is very expensive—alternatives in the Financial Times last weekend.

Leather was a key component to the show. Vanhee-Cybulski breathed life into the fabric, giving it a much-needed lightness for the summer season. The art of subtlety played to her advantage, as did some modern silhouettes. She could’ve used some more experimentation with the fabrics and a more forceful stance on particular styles—that cropped taupe jacket was a veritable winner. 

Overall, it was uncomplicated, sophisticated, and adaptable. Those are the increasingly-sought after qualities by shoppers and these are the kind of clothes women—read: very rich women—might buy come January. 

Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

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