Gayeon Lee’s spring 2019 show at London Fashion Week was influenced by Egon Schiele’s figurative illustrations. Perhaps she had seen the ‘Life in Motion: Egon Schiele/Francesca Woodman’ exhibition at the Tate Liverpool this summer. Lee kept things subtle—there were no overt references to Schiele’s inclination for the nude form or surrealist intimacy. Rather, she set out to construct a collection surrounding “twisted shapes and movement.”
Glen Snowden, a ballet tutor at Central Saint Martins, choreographed a dance which featured professional ballet dancers and models. (Read: the models weren’t as awkward as they usually are when shows offer something more than the formulaic procession. A victory for performance in fashion.)
With a staid interpretation of 50s fashion silhouettes, in parts, she failed to capture frisson of effervescence the balletic procession promised—chiefly, a pleated beige skirt and petunia-print blouse with striped sleeves. The tailoring fared much better but there weren’t enough examples of it here.
Lee should consider intimately acquainting us with her interests next time. Her homage to Schiele barely scratched the surface.
Photo Credit: Gayeon Lee