“The cinematic universe of Pedro Almodóvar creates the frame for spring 2019,” were the words that introduced David Koma’s latest effort at London Fashion Week in September. Inspired by the “atmospheric moods” of the director’s films, Koma embarked on a Spanish narrative that began with Almodóvar and brought him to flamenco. Evoking the “grace and drama” of dancers such as Carmen Amaya, Koma conjured shapes and forms which created a kinetic movement as the models whizzed past. The emphasis was placed on physicality, as it always is in a David Koma show, and this season, it underscored the athletic influences which underpin much of his work.
Koma spent four years designing at Mugler. The Georgian designer exited the brand in late 2017 to focus on his eponymous label. He exhibited a prowess for managing the expectations of the storied house’s modern iteration. It was a collaboration that lent itself to his own design handwriting which has since evolved into a balance between sophistication and sensuality, elegance and sexiness. A blazer dress in neon green and a white mini dress, embellished with plexi-discs, stood out as prime examples.
Koma distinguished himself from his London peers in his approach to fashion. Roksanda and Erdem sought the patronage of the soigné dames, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou purveyed artful territories. Koma was unabashed in his desire to acquaint himself with the fabulous, partying proclivities of the super-rich.
In a London fashion scene which primarily rewards the bright-eyed and bushy-tailed youth and the eccentric, his longevity is a testament to shrewd business decisions and an ability to connect with the celebrity set and his customers. The introduction of evening gowns, shimmering chainmail columns, or his updated polished tailoring is sure to go down a treat with his fans.