Tuesday, June 12, 2018

The Spectacle of Fashion Eclipses the Clothes at London Fashion Week Men's // Spring 2019

On Sunday at London Fashion Week Men’s there was a fake-blood-lathered naked man manoeuvring a smashed crate, male models cradling prosthetic baby bumps, and campy characters thrashing convulsively on the runway. That was all before 1pm.

The naked man covered in paint appeared at Samuel Ross’ A-COLD-WALL* show, which was attended by impresario Virgil Abloh. Having been recently nominated for the LVMH Prize and secured investment from Tomorrow London, high-level editors and buyers flocked to the Old Truman Brewery for an unforgettable multidisciplinary spectacle. First emerged the pewter-hued detachable-hood-wearing soldiers in uniform procession. Second came the models attired in conceptual streetwear that presented an alternate vision for the future of men’s fashion.

Ross was thinking about brutalist British architecture and the working class milieu he grew up in, before breaking into the fashion world. The polystyrene crate his soldiers transported around the catwalk before physically breaking down the walls of it, with a naked man covered in blood symbolising “rebirth” emerging. Perhaps it was a metaphor for the post-LVMH Prize nomination prosperity he’s sure to relish in? It could’ve alluded to the rebirth of streetwear—for once, someone was contributing something to the most overwrought dialogue in men’s fashion. Or even, on a personal level, it was about his transcendence of social framework—from a council estate to the fashion industry.

The spectacle veritably outshone the exceptional quality of this season’s clothes but I think his loyal fanbase will buy into his vision regardless. His ability to merge the worlds of architecture and fashion and create a poetic haute street wear is a testament to his talent. Utility is the name of the game in menswear and he elevated that here with fabric innovation and technical prowess.

Xander Zhou was the proponent of paternal pregnancy. Extraterrestrial or futurist visionary? One look with prosthetic hands extending every which way reminded one of a multi-limbed deity. Zhou is good at what he does. He knows how to create a desirable garment but his mind seems to jump from thought to thought each season. There’s never really any connection. There are great clothes but it lacks a coherent vision which is alienating. A discernible brand identity would help him go the extra mile. The pregnant male models unfortunately eclipsed the clothes which ranged from 90s-tinged futurism, the highlight being striped rugby shirts.  

Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt’s final display as part of Fashion East’s Man collective with their Art School project was a high-octane queer drama. Disseminating ideals about gender fluidity, campness and queer culture, they received help from characters including transgender model Munroe Bergdorf and DJ Princess Julia. They command London fashion’s dialogue with queer culture, servicing the hallowed ground of Sebastian Pieter, and the ill-fated Meadham Kirchhoff, both of whom have dropped off the schedule in recent years for one reason or another.

Their models pirouetted, pivoted and preened on the runway at the Old Truman Brewery. They ran, they threw themselves on the floor in a Leigh Bowery-influenced procession, and one even laid down, kicking his stiletto heels like he was the victim of a violent attack in a French psychodrama. 

The clothes were their best to date but they still haven’t quite worked out how to match the calibre of their clothing with the ‘high concept character’ they select to represent their brand. In the context of the wearer, it can fall rather flat. But it’s evident progress is being made. What they have mastered is the co-existence of clothing and character, you can’t focus on one without the other.

The theatrics reminded one of London Fashion Week Men’s when it began, then known as London Collections: Men. Those were the days when it was struggling to find a foothold in the men’s fashion conversation, especially alongside the venerated fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. There were shock tactics deployed to capture imaginations but what really stood out was good design. Now there's mostly just a focus on design.

Momentum picked up when the industry shone a light on talents like J.W. Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, and Craig Green who were drawing international press and buyers to London before their other European menswear obligations. But J.W. has since consolidated menswear and womenswear and switched to the womenswear schedule in February and September. Wales Bonner is sitting Spring 2019 out, opting for appointments during Paris Fashion Week in lieu of a catwalk display. Craig Green has been invited to show at Pitti Uomo, the men’s fashion fair in Florence, Italy, later this week.

London’s firmly established position on the menswear calendar will extend into the future with the industry clout of talents like Samuel Ross, Xander Zhou and Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt, amongst a host of others. What this London Fashion Week Men’s proved is the designers are bursting with ideas and their efforts at articulating them can be both discombobulating and endearing.
Photo Credit: showstudio

18 comments:

  1. Looking for paper box making machine in india ? Then we are the best for you, who suit your expectations. We have huge experience on this field. We are 100% dedicated to find you paper box making machine in india.
    We are dedicated to manufacturing and sales of a wide range of paper box making machine in india.
    You can find here your best one.
    If you want to know more, Please check out here: KETE GROUP

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yet, I am less needing the power they offer me to be seen, appreciated, and begrudged.womens pirate bathing suit

    ReplyDelete
  3. Style speaks to one culture diverse to the next. Style is one the incredible method to express ones sentiments. Splendid hues show satisfaction. What's more, the contrary hues will show presumably dismal, and particularly at a day like that everybody is sporting dark.
    trendy clothes for women

    ReplyDelete
  4. One of the upsides of looking for dress on-line is that on-line customers have the "entire world as a shopping center". A customer can make choices from various stores and furthermore from an assortment of plans and styles.clothes

    ReplyDelete
  5. It's not only men and women who are more drawn to these wholesale clothes but also when it comes to buying decent-looking apparels for children that wholesale clothing plays an important role. Custom Iron On Patches

    ReplyDelete
  6. Don't worry, you're not aspiring to be the next Van Gogh; all you need is a clear concept of how you want your clothes to look. A clothing line reflects your personality, so how you dress and what kind of style you like will always come out in your designs. Dutch Label Shop

    ReplyDelete
  7. Things have changed tremendously since then. Everyone wears shorts in summer or when the temperatures soar. Women wear shorts for comfort and to enhance their sexuality. Hot Chips Biker Shorts

    ReplyDelete
  8. Boutique young ladies apparel holds its worth. In view of its great, uniqueness and selectiveness, non mainstream kids garments holds its esteem and can be effectively passed down or cold after your young lady is finished wearing it. trendy boutique

    ReplyDelete
  9. Looking for pad printing machine for your business ? Then we are the best for you, who suit your expectations. We have huge experience on this field. We are 100% dedicated to find you cheap top qulaitypad printing machine.
    You can buy pad printing machine here and here are numberius clients buy our products. We are provide only high quality pad printing machine for you with always customers support.
    There are many printing feautures avaibale in our stocks.
    If you want to know more, Please check out here - https://autoprintmachine.com/pad-printing-machine/ for more information.

    ReplyDelete
  10. After six consecutive months in quarantine, I think I forgot to do fashion, but thanks for sharing this great post that will help me in get in touch again with fashion. Assignment Writing Services

    ReplyDelete
  11. Love JORD watches! That one is really cute, love the face color. You layered outfit is fanatic!
    Regards: First Copy Watches in Hyderabad

    ReplyDelete
  12. Launched in 1993, JILL STUART is an American fashion designer brand based in New York City, Hong Kong, and Taïwan which has gained international fame with her unique feminine charm.
    Along with all brands carrying Jill Stuart’s name, JILL STUART Eyewear, through unleashing femininity and individuality of every woman with one-of-a-kind designs, impeccable selection of materials and colors, and state-of-the-art production, is the answer to a woman’s desire of being the one she truly wants to be.

    Jill Stuart’s store locator in Taïwan:

    ● La Mode The Eslite Spectrum (Taichung MITSUI Outlet Park store)
    Shop 30100-L104, 1F., No. 168, Sec. 10, Taiwan Blvd., Wuqi Dist.
    Taichung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-895-105
    ● La Mode Taichung Tiger City
    No. 120, Sec. 3, Henan Rd., Xitun Dist.
    Taichung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 4-3606-2525
    ● La Mode The Eslite Bookstore (Taichung Parklane by CMP store)
    1F., No. 68, Gongyi Rd., West Dist.
    Taichung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 4-3609-3196
    ● La Mode Taichung Showtime Live Plaza (Wenxin store)
    1F., No. 289, Wenxin S. Rd., Nantun Dist.
    Taichung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 966-368-867
    ● La Mode TAROKO Mall
    2F., No. 186, Sec. 4, Fuxing Rd., East Dist.
    Taichung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 4-2224-4811
    ● La Mode SHANG SHUN World
    1F., No. 105, Zhongyang Rd., Toufen City
    Miaoli County
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 37-243-611
    ● La Mode SOGO (Zhongli store)
    3F., No. 357, Yuanhua Rd., Zhongli Dist.
    Taoyuan City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 966-393-250
    ● La Mode Far Eastern (Hualien store)
    1F., No. 581, Heping Rd., Hualien City
    Hualien County
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-988-035
    ● La Mode Taoyuan Tonlin Plaza
    2F., No. 61, Zhongzheng Rd., Taoyuan Dist.
    Taoyuan City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 966-025-200
    ● La Mode The Eslite Bookstore (Ximen store)
    2F., No. 52, Emei St., Wanhua Dist.
    Taipei city
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 2-2375-3308
    ● La Mode Q Square
    B1F., No. 1, Sec. 1, Chengde Rd., Datong Dist.
    Taipei City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 2-6617-8129
    ● SOGO (Taipei Zhongxiao store)
    4F., No. 45, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Da'an Dist.
    Taipei City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 2-6617-5616
    ● La Mode SHIN KONG Mitsukoshi (Taipei Xinyi place A11)
    Shop 077, B1F., No. 11, Songshou Rd., Xinyi Dist.
    Taipei City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-060-988
    ● La Mode SHIN KONG Mitsukoshi (Taipei Xinyi place A8)
    3F., No. 12, Songgao Rd., Xinyi Dist.
    Taipei City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-986-636
    ● La Mode LEECO Outlet (Neihu store)
    1F., No. 205, Minshan St., Neihu Dist.
    Taipei City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 2-8791-3284
    ● La Mode E-DA Outlet Mall
    Zone C, B1F., No. 12, Sec. 1, Xuecheng Rd., Dashu Dist.
    Kaohsiung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-986-650
    ● La Mode Pacific Department Store (Pingtung store)
    1F., No. 72, Zhongzheng Rd., Pingtung City
    Pingtung County
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 8-810-3523
    ● La Mode Hanshin Arena Shopping Plaza
    Shop 310321, 3F., No. 777, Bo’ai 2nd Rd., Zuoying Dist.
    Kaohsiung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 979-300-920
    ● La Mode Hanshin Department Store
    7F., No. 266-1, Chenggong 1st Rd., Qianjin Dist.
    Kaohsiung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 966-219-812
    ● La Mode Dream Mall
    2F., No. 789, Zhonghua 5th Rd., Qianzhen Dist.
    Kaohsiung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 966-115-092
    ● La Mode TAROKO Park
    1F., No. 1-1, Zhong'an Rd., Qianzhen Dist.
    Kaohsiung City
    Taiwan (R.O.C.)
    (886) 7-963-7169



    ReplyDelete
  13. I’ve been searching for some decent stuff on the subject and haven't had any luck up until this point, You just got a new biggest fan!.. https://totshoes.com/

    ReplyDelete
  14. Excellent post. I was reviewing this blog continuously, and I am impressed! Extremely helpful information especially this page. Thank you and good luck. Secondhand kids clothes

    ReplyDelete
  15. They're working in a wide range of companies, I can name some of them here: pharmaceutical, fitness, suppliers, manufacturers, airlines and many others.models

    ReplyDelete
  16. At the point when abayas previously hit the market, they were a one-size-fits all.Abayas dresses

    ReplyDelete