Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Sharon Wauchob // Spring 2017 //

The Sunday night revellers at London Fashion Week, back in September, religious or not, had to visit the church the next day, not once but three times. Huishan Zhang brought his evening wear mastery to St Andrew’s Church in Holborn (where Bora Aksu showed last season), Osman Yousefzada ensconced his audience at the Church House at Westminster Abbey. Earlier in the day, Sharon Wauchob held her Spring 2017 presentation in St Cyprian’s Church, which effectively echoed her body of work. The church, with vaulted ceilings, laden in gold detailing and religious iconography, colourful stained glass windows, had similar levels of decorative and narrative functions to Wauchob’s clothing.

(Wauchob presented her collection at Paris Fashion Week hitherto. For Fall 2016 she put together a lookbook for the press; there was no formal show. Spring 2017 marked her return to London, where she studied at Central Saint Martins. Arriving on the London Fashion Week schedule at a time when it is overflowing is a brave move. But the editors and buyers flocked, Sharon Wauchob’s work is gold dust to them.)
The meat and the potatoes were to be found in lavish leathers, such as the jacket in a crimson shade, and supple trenches. Wauchob doesn’t only nail outwear, she also has a knack for creating lingerie-inspired garment that aren’t just alluring, but functional. Gossamer French lace, lustrous silks in striking hues, and glittering floral embellishments stood. Where sexuality bubbled the collection excelled. Boudoir dressing, boardroom dressing—the collection’s opulence blurred the lines between the two. It was a portrait of a lady, in the truest sense of the label. These women were reminiscent of 18th century oil paintings—they’re possibly art collectors, who enjoy afternoon tea and winters skiing in St. Moritz. What’s their profession? Who knows—they’re loaded.

The silky pyjama tunics were flowing—not exactly flattering, but ideal for an afternoon relaxing, or walking in the countryside (it was certainly clear to this critic that’s what the Wauchob woman would indulge in.) Slouchy leather trousers with feather accents, and a beige shirt decorated with an embroidered flower—luxury loungewear suitable for travelling. Where comfort was concerned, it appears Wauchob is touching all bases, all situations. 

“Youth and positivity” were the two words Wauchob mentioned when speaking of her return to London. There was a positivity to the affair, what with it being a homecoming but also the warm colour palette. While there was a refreshing air to the collection, it wasn’t one overrun with references for a 16-year-old girl to enjoy. Mature woman have a friend in Sharon Wauchob. She mixed modesty with expression of sexuality, formalwear with loungewear—she balanced everything with aplomb. Welcome back.

Photo Credit: voguerunway.com

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