When designers drop off fashion week schedules my heart flounders. There’re multiple reasons behind the move. There mightn’t be a need for a showcase, such as a catwalk show or a static presentation, on schedule; the brand could be in trouble financially; the brand doesn’t want to conform to the official scheduling system. Thomas Tait operates similarly to the first option. “It’s a small and strategic decision to take the time I feel my work deserves.” Swapping London for Paris, Tait opted for an intimate press and buyers-only presentation at the Galerie Almine Rech. A lengthy rail of clothing was erected for visitors to peruse.
Tait has been very personal in his inspirations and has said that those that know him personally would be able to pick up on certain references within his collection, such as his sense of humour. He is also vocal that the clothes he makes are consciously created with the concept of how a woman would feel in them. His desire is to make clothing that woman want to wear and if you’ve been paying attention for the past couple of years, you’ll know he does so effortlessly.
The beauty of seeing clothing on a rail is that it’s like seeing them in store. Whatever store picks up this collection will have plenty of options to satiate the hunger for complexly beautiful pieces. A pair of black trousers, embellished with Swarovski beading, exploded into jaggedly cut tails. A white jacket, which was heavily structured, featured circular motifs that added a 3-D element to the garment. Patchwork jeans, in multiple shades of blue, and with floral panels, had exposed seams. Similarly, a denim jacket did too, and featured a layered, frustum-shaped cut-out in an ancient floral print. Tait supplemented lookbook imagery for websites. A model, or a gymnast, with her body contorted in different angles displayed the kinetic nature of the garments—how they wear and move.
Thomas Tait graduated in the same year as Simone Rocha, Matthew Harding (of Palmer//Harding success) and Jackie Lee; all three of those names still show on the London Fashion Week schedule. Vogue Runway have documented his work as far back as his graduation collection, which ended being a monochromatic display due to financial difficulties. There's been 12 collections since that initial debut, 13 in total; they say 13 is an unlucky, but Thomas Tait could be described as one of the luckiest designers in London. He’s immensely talent and developing his business in an honest way, without betraying his own values. That’s impressive.
Photo Credit: swarovski.com, Thomas Tait