There’s always one gut-wrenching moment during my London Fashion Week experience. There was two last season—missing Jamie Wei Huang, and getting rained on at Bora Aksu—but this season that number was reduced to one. Due to a confusion, much to my dismay, at the hotel, a misplaced invite arrived into my hands the night of the show, which was held that afternoon. Eudon Choi’s spectacular Fall 2016 show was the casualty. The invitation was a beautiful image, created by Justyna Michalowksa, of a sunset. Teal merged with peach on the invite, and it served as a prelude to show, entitled ‘Sunwise Turn’. A Sunwise Turn, according to Celtic tradition, means a “prosperous course.”
Finding inspiration in two female artists - Saloua Raouda Choucair and Helen Frankenthaler - Choi drew on two incredibly different aspects of their work. Choucair’s work focuses on sharp, graphic lines and bold colours. Conversely, Frankenthaler’s work favours softer, fluid shades, less punchy hues. The collection is “an imagined dialogue between [Choucair] and [Frankenthaler] and the artistic styles they championed.” He opened with a navy jacket with an asymmetric pink pale, worn with navy trousers with a split opening. A panel on the sleeve was in a subdued lilac hue, and in motion, it was revealed that the lining of the coat was in gentle brushstroke pastel hues. The delicate brushstrokes were inspired by Frankenthaler’s work. There was pale pinks, subtle blues on a variety of dresses. Contrast to this, Choucair’s vivid colours took shape in other looks. Wood green, burgundy, navy made up the other half of the looks. Colour is an important aspect of abstract art, largely because of how evocative it is; partly for surface value.
Day one of London Fashion Week boasts nineteen shows and presentations. Each show can be memorable, in different ways. Sadie Williams, Ryan Lo and Steven Tai had awesome sets, Marta Jakubowski had an excellent debut, the Central Saint Martins graduates presented their first of many successful shows. Eudon Choi presented the best collection of his career. It was particularly fitting that Eudon Choi decided upon “Sunwise Turn” as the title of his collection. This collection showed the beginning of a “prosperous course”; this was a breakthrough and Choi’s strongest collection to date.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com