Tuesday, May 31, 2016

A.V. Robertson // Fall 2016 //

Prior to her first fashion show, Amie Robertson appeared in the spring issue of Katie Grand’s Love magazine, alongside fellow Central Saint Martins graduate Matty Bovan. Last September, she designer illustrations for Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2016 celebration of flashy Americanism collection. Both those two powerhouse names behind you, your career as an emerging designer is given a welcomed and helpful boost. For her Fashion East presentation, Amie enlisted Grand as stylist, Anita Bitton as casting director, and seated Jacobs front row. Top models including Edie Campbell, Anna Cleveland, Georgia May Jagger, Lineisy Montero unexpectedly walked in this emerging designer’s show, the like of which is unheard of in London. It was a pleasant surprise, but as a fashion critic it encourages you to be a stricter reviewer; you’re interested in analysing whether or not this designer deserves the wealth of attention she’s receiving. 

Does she deserve the attention she’s receiving? Obviously, yes. Every young designer deserves all the attention in the world! But will too much attention taint her career? Possibly not. Amie has entered the fashion “system” (I still can’t bear to remove the inverted commas around the word), and she’ll probably start churning out two collections a year, while also consulting for brands. Perhaps, it would have been better to bide her time at Marc Jacobs, where she worked as a design assistant, which is not to discredit her talent. But that position would’ve accelerated her ability.

As depicted by this collection, Amie is a talented young woman with quirky stories to tell. Inspired this season by the the “otherworldly dreamscapes” that her childhood stories were based around, her collection was influenced by the idea of an alien arriving to earth, clothes sheathed in dust from their turbulent travels. Her “sci-fi phantasm” unfurled with swirling notions of femininity and masculine tailoring. Images of a 70s secretary came to mind, as well as Rihanna’s bad girl swagger. Printed on asymmetrical cut dresses and jackets were were iridescent flowers from “off-world.” There was an unearthly glamour to this collection, advanced by the stylish of the velvet footwear that punctuated each look.

To her advantage, Amie was the last to show her collection at the Fashion East presentation. Like her cohorts, Richard Malone, Caitlin Price, Amie completed a strong runway line-up with her design’s effortless attitude. Marc Jacobs, Katie Grand, Anita Bitton gave this collection a boost, but not undeservedly. Amie Robertson was made for a catwalk presentation, which suited her better than her predecessors on the day.

Photo Credit: jungle-magazine.co.uk

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