Without any obnoxious poeticism, mystique is traded for practicality where the Markus Lupfer woman is concerned. For Fall 2016 she is a sleepless woman who needs a collection that “caters for her 24 hour lifestyle without compromising on polish.” This is something you hear a lot of nowadays. Sometimes it sounds like utter make-believe, but in certain collections there’s sincerity. Where I found there to be sincerity in this collection was the strive for polish. The Markus Lupfer woman strikes me as a woman that values neatness and individuality, in a subtly respective way. But there has to be a catch! She has a glam-rock spirit. Seventies influences could be felt in this collection with twee dresses and coats.
The collection had some weaknesses. The introduction of glam-rock was an intriguing touch. Rhinestones were appliquéd on model’s faces, hair was bedraggled, faces were fresh, and gold earrings dangled from the ears of models. It emitted a ‘winter Coachella’ vibe. That’s especially jarring when placed alongside a twee day dress printed with daisies and styled with a thick wool coat. The bohemian air and the day-to-night workwear aesthetic clashed in uncomfortable ways. The interaction was uncomfortable.
The hand-finished embroidery seen throughout the collection was developed for pre-fall. Florals—a Lupfer staple—were embroidered on most pieces, including a lovely sheer skirt in autumnal hues (burgundy, mustard). The accessories in the collection were embroidered too, with thick rhinestones. Regarding pre-fall, some designers refuse to engage with pre-collections, but Lupfer’s business model appears to require and benefit from pre-fall and resort. Not just business focused, pre-fall proved instrumental, generating ideas for this collection.
A quintessentially charming collection from Markus Lupfer. He’s more than just “quirky sweaters”, but it’s what comes next is a pressing question that I have, and the answer remains to be revealed.
All images are my own