Saturday, April 30, 2016

Monthly Review: April

Already four months into the year and we’ve had the announcement of Bouchra Jarrar’s appointment at Lanvin, the departures of Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli from Calvin Klein. If last year’s Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz exits shocked you, I’m pretty sure whatever the rest of this year has in store for us is going to be nothing different. 

Announcements are exciting. Announcements of departures aren’t. Just when I felt Francisco Costa was getting into a rhythm at Calvin Klein Collection, the label announced the news last week and I was slightly peeved, but also exasperated. Exasperated from the musical chairs game fashion has become. The business side of things continues to kill creativity. In an unprecedented move, Italian menswear brand Brioni hired MyTheresa’s global fashion director, Justin O’Shea, as creative director. O’Shea who knows what sells and works for customers is an intelligent choice, but can a buyer become a creative director? ‘Creative director’ is just a loose term given these days, but I’m sure the Australian will handle this new job with aplomb.

In other news, Louis Vuitton released their S/S 2016 travel ad campaign, starring French actress Lea Séydoux. Dressed in the Pre-Fall collection, Séydoux was captured by photographer Patrick Demarchlier for the shoot. Photographed in Rio de Janeiro, at a ranch designed by Mexican architect Luis Barragan. The shoot is a “prelude to [the brand’s] imminent arrival at the Niteroi Museum of Contemporary Art late May for the resort show. 

Speaking of shows, men’s fashion week is just over a month away. It was announced this past month that Raf Simons will be swapping Paris Fashion Week for the Pitti Uomo calendar in Florence in June. Likewise, Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy has been named as a guest designer for the event. Both immensely exciting names migrating to Italy for the season—I look forward to seeing their shows. Also scheduled for Pitti Uomo is the Karl Lagerfeld_Visions of Fashion exhibition, which is curated by Chanel’s image director, Eric Pfrunder. 
What to Know About Calvin Klein’s Dual Departure - New York Times -

Brioni Names Justin O’Shea Creative Director - Business of Fashion

Léa Seydoux Fronts Louis Vuitton SS16 Travel Campaign - {Inbox}

Raf Simons Will Show Spring 2017 Collection at Pitti Uomo - Vogue.com

Gosha Rubchinskiy is Pitti Uomo Guest Designer - High Snobiety

Major exhibition of Karl Lagerfeld’s photography announced - Dazed Digital
Image 1: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton / Images 2: my own / Image 3:

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