Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe takeover has been an intriguing designer pairing. When he arrived the Spanish leather goods label was a blank canvas, a malleable shape. He certainly hammered it into shape not dissimilar to a contemporary art structure. Ever since, the avant-garde output has gotten more interesting season on season. The handbags are genius. There’s the fantastic ‘Puzzle’ bag which you’ve probably seen on every sidewalk from New York to Paris this past month; the ‘Elephant’ bag, a brilliantly shaped clutch and coin purse; and the new season ‘Joyce’ purse. Other than the bags this season, the introduction of a lucky beckoning cat necklace. It’s nice to see a brand give the creative director freedom over accessories. With most brands, designers are limited to clothing only. Loewe took a gamble and are still benefiting from it. The accessories are quite telling of this new Loewe woman. She’s an unconventional beauty; she likes the stranger things in life, exhibit A) last season’s see-through plastic trousers. And Fall 2016 was more insistent on sending a luxurious commercial collection.
Intoning a humourous soundscape, an infomercial from the Harley Street Stop Smoking Clinic came from the speakers. Humour is a big aspect of Anderson’s Loewe collections. Case in point: the lucky cat talisman and the Easter Island-esqe faces on necklaces. A shaggy, mop-like interpretation of the ‘Flamenco’ bag was another example.
This collection was possibly his best. There were handkerchief hems, leather panelling and bustiers, an open weave rubber skirt, sleeves with metal ringlets, gilded bustiers, hand painted dresses. Those were just the standout points. Then there were luxury numbers. A $38,000 striped mink coat, a camel coat, a champagne trench coat, a t-shirt knit dress. The above looks are all available for pre-order until April. The frayed tweed dress looked like a subverted Chanel number.
“Curation” is a word I’ve seen used in relation to this collection. The detailed set which could easily be the house of the Loewe woman. The layering of accessories on outfits—a surplus of necklaces, chokers, earrings, stockings and tights. The clothes: pieced together, mixed and matched. It all came together seamlessly. It was an art exhibition-cum-fashion show. The set didn’t detract from the clothing. It made the clothes look lived-in, a believable melange of experimentalism. Terribly clever, yet again.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com