Friday, March 11, 2016

Danielle Romeril // Fall 2016 //

Entering the Danielle Romeril presentation, I was greeted at the door by the designer herself. She remembered me from the season previous. She’s possibly met hundreds of people over the previous six months, but she recognised me. It’s the little things. 

Her presentation was held, conveniently, around the corner from the Topshop Show Space at the Tate Britain, in a light-filled room in the Chelsea College of Arts. The NEWGEN-supported designer filled the room with gaffer tape, in an array of colours, taped in various directions. Inside the tape architecture stood the models. If you had any doubts about who the Danielle Romeril is, then this collection would answer all of them. “A portrait of Isabel de Valois, Consort of King Philip II of Spain; embroideries made by hand; futuristic fabrics; historical costume; the football scarf; the graphic stripes of a cycling jersey; the volume of sixteenth century sleeve. Thrown in the free spirits of the Dutch 80s cult nightclub Studio Paradiso, and you have the Danielle Romeril girl.” The listing elaborately defined the wearer of this label. She has an affinity for historic reference, belongs to a sports tribe, and loves the 80s. What a lovely melting pot!

The fall collection was overwhelming stylish. From silky shirs festooned with an intricately knitted pocket accent. Black trousers featured the same textural enhancement. The use of “psychedelic print” added a necessary element to the clothing that interfered with the normality of the colour palette. A bold stripe seen on a football scarf was styled with a white blouse (that was also slashed at the elbows). With other designers focusing on the exposition of the shoulders, Danielle looked south to the elbows. Her voluminous sleeves were slashed, revealing the arm’s halfway point. One biker jacket in a rich burgundy hue could easily be worn by a modern-day Isabel de Valois.

In a street wear-fatigued fashion landscape, the addition of new articles to the field can just fuel the tedium; Danielle did the opposite. Slashed knees on trousers, a flaming red skirt paired with Dr Marten’s, a parka and a sweater, a ruffled, cropped blouse paired with a baby blue deconstructed skirt. Abstracting the regular street wear tropes, Danielle’s stood out more than rest. Partly because of the interesting shapes and colours.

Challenging, yet not intimidating. These clothes will likely stir but that doesn’t diminish their wearability. In fact, if I remember correctly, Danielle was sporting those black trousers and a netted blouse. It’s always great to see a designer in their own designs. She graciously ushered journalists around the collection. 

Good things happen to good people. 
All photos are my own

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