Monday, February 1, 2016

Calvin Klein Collection // Fall 2016 // Menswear

Outside the Calvin Klein Collection show in Milan a few weeks back, hordes of teenage girls swarmed the show space. The attendees, slightly bemused, slightly irked by their presence entered the show space with fandom fatigue. Who were they fighting to get a photo with? The answer is Cameron Dallas. I’ve seen other publications loosely label him as an “internet sensation,” while others dubbed him “Vine star.” Long story short, he is both. His fan base is predominately females, specifically teenage girls. Posting 6-second clips to Vine, as well as being a YouTuber is Dallas’ career of choice. He dabbles in acting. The reviews aren’t promising. Italo Zucchelli had him front row for the Fall 2016 show, primarily to garner social media attention. The show that Dallas witnessed… well let’s just say he isn’t the demographic. The most baffling thing about a Calvin Klein Collection mens show is the casting. I’ve seen varied ages throughout the other menswear weeks but Calvin Klein always sticks out like a sore-thumb. Fresh-faced 19-year-olds take to the runway in clothes they most likely don’t wear. Youth is on every designer’s mind these days, obsessing over youth culture. Arguably, there was an awkward clash here.

The clothes, which I deemed boring last season, didn’t bear the astronomical impact I wanted. Once again, Zucchelli delivered a collection similar to last season. Skinny leg trousers, white tees, unremarkable tuxedos. The most exciting aspect of the collection was the three female models. Resurrecting Gemma Ward’s career, the Australian model returned to the model with much excitement, alongside Mariacarla Boscono and Raquel Zimmermann. 

The only effort to spice things was the use of metallics. Copper coats, silver cummerbunds, gold jackets. Reminiscent of Donatella Versace’s jackets from the night previous, gold and silver puffer numbers were present. One in particular had a silver body, gold zip and a copper lined hood. Not a fan. At least some attempt was made. 

In the case of the gimmick at the Valentino fall 2015 womenswear show—it being the appearance of Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson in character as Derek Zoolander and Hansel McDonald—the clothes weren’t overshadowed; they were beautiful clothes and nothing took away from that. The PR stunt at Calvin Klein was the seating of Cameron Dallas front row, which added some intrigue. Without him this would’ve been a forgettable, dour, flavourless affair. 

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