Monday, December 7, 2015

Versus Versace // Spring 2016 //

There’s only two other designers that can exact the sultriness and empowerment of a Versace collection. One of them is obviously Donatella Versace. The other: Anthony Vaccarello. His namesake label’s collections ooze sexiness. The product of the two of them combined would be exhilarating. Ms. Versace tapped Vaccarello to design the Versus Versace label. Versace’s younger, more affordable sibling was given a memorable treatment during fashion week. Strangely, Versus descended upon London for their Spring 2016 collection. Known for harbouring London-based developing business—save for a few—the inclusion of Versus was odd but it added some novelty to the weekend.

As strobe lights flickered, the first model wore a two piece, trousers and a jacket. But when the catwalk lit up in a shiny white and Maartje Verhoef hit the runway, it was clear that Vaccarello’s Spring collection was in full throttle. It was a neat jacket and a mini skirt with signature mix of materials. Erin Wasson surprisingly walked the show, unsurprisingly wearing an oversized blazer. Decked out in a sheath mini, Katya Ledneva’s dress was accented with silver hardware. Versus Versace personified.

Anthony Vaccarello’s personal stamp did make an appearance. There were dress with cut-outs, one sleeve looks, asymmetrical hemlines. The denim and leather jackets were all too familiar of his Paris digs. Taylor Hill, born in the late nineties, stepped out of the nineties in a leather jacket with rolled-up sleeves and 3/4-length printed denims. The menswear look that preceded was like a darker, cooler take on the double-denim trend. However, I wasn’t totally convinced. 

I wasn’t as excited by this collection as much as I thought I would be. It was unimpressive. The menswear wasn’t that strong either. One model looked like he was about to fix your boiler. This may be a cheaper diffusion line, but that doesn’t mean it has to look cheap. As I said, Versus is Versace’s younger sibling. Under the helm of Anthony Vaccarello, I’m still waiting for it to grow into itself. 

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