Wednesday, December 16, 2015

Coach // Spring 2016 // Menswear

American accessories and ready-to-wear brand Coach has been given a revamp over the past few years. In June 2013, Stuart Vevers was announced as creative director of the brand. Reestablishing the label’s position in the fashion industry, the designer has created visually appealing collections since his appointment. 

The Spring 2016 menswear collection was presented during London Collections: Men in June. The first runway show for Coach men’s, the show was a celebration of west coast psychedelics. The jacket that opened the show was bursting with colour. The abstract prints resembled something like a child’s art project. Livid red, deep purple, acidy lime and pink all amalgamated to create a riveting colour show. I particularly enjoyed the neon board shorts towards the end of the collection. 

There has been a dearth of summery, breezy vibes in the Spring menswear collections. This show, in its use of lighter fabrics, came close. There were a handful of pieces that looked like modernist Hawaiian shirts. Faux-fur lined flip-flops weren’t the most stylish—they reminded me instantly of Céline’s daring furkenstocks from a few years ago. The board shorts were the nicest I’ve seen in a long time. 

“A lot of what we are exploring with Coach men’s is how do you get the guy who is not embracing fashion on board,” Vevers told the Business of Fashion this year. I don’t think the tiger print or the slew of flashy neon jackets and coats will appeal to the broader customer base. The biker jackets and parkas, the cool sneakers, the quirky t-shirts and shirts were much more visually appealing and easy to wear. 

“You create a character, a personality for the brand, a point of view.” Vevers distinctly portrays his. His affinity for the new Americana comes across in both his men and women’s collections. Though revenue may be ailing, Vevers manages to bring something new to the accessible luxury market. The product is accessible and luxurious. 
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