Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Christopher Raeburn // Spring 2016 // Menswear

Today I present to you the first menswear post. I’ve wanted to branch into menswear writing for some time. Every other day I’ll feature some menswear posts. I decided to start these posts with one of my favourite womenswear designers.

Christopher Ræburn is one of my favourite designers as you may already know. His recent womenswear collection referenced the Sarawak region in Borneo. His menswear collection, which preceded that, was entitled ‘Borneo’. It was inspired by anthropologist Tom Harrison’s autobiography The Most Offending Soul Alive. It documents his travels to Borneo where he devoted his life to preserving and studying the culture and environment of the nation. He was recruited by the British Army and worked in the area again. The military undertone we see in most Ræburn collections was present here also. Reclaimed military surplus was used in the collection. Bomber jackets and field jackets were reimagined and repurposed. Sleeping bags and air break parachutes were deconstructed, a signature Ræburn theme. 

The cartography seen in the womenswear collection appeared in this collection first. Made in collaboration with knitwear specialist Knyttan, maps of Borneo were emblazoned on pieces. References to the tribes of Sarawak originated in this collection before carrying through to the womenswear collection in September. 

I loved the jumpers emblemed with the season’s mascot: the orang-utan. Their black silhouette was set against an olive green colour. A hoodie with a green, yellow and black orang-utan print was another favourite of mine. A cork woven bomber jacket with net sleeves is another stylish option within the collection. I was intrigued by one look which had camouflage print jacket worn over a similar style yellow-green jacket. The wool joggers looked fantastic. 

The nylon used in the collection didn’t have the same impact on me as the rest of the collection did. I wasn’t impressed by the nylon trousers or shorts. The jackets fared much better with this material. They could easily be dismissed as a boring raincoat, but I would disagree.

This collection was certainly interesting. I found the slouchy trousers and the nylon to be unflattering and unstylish. I enjoyed most of it, primarily the T-shirts, orang-utan prints and the jackets. I still have yet to decide whether he is a stronger menswear designer than womenswear designer. It seems to be even ground, as the spring collections would imply.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com

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