My prayers were heard: Francisco Costa designed his second consecutive Calvin Klein Collection that I reacted to positively. His Spring 2016 collection, a reference to the Spring 1994 collection was designed by the eponymous designer. 21 years later, Costa is at the helm and giving us a timely and welcome ode to the 90’s.
Gothic deconstruction played its part in the collection. Karly Loyce, with a supply cut leather cut coat draped over her shoulders, wore silky trousers and a blouse with delicate beading. Pooja Mor’s dress with trailing strips of material wasn’t entirely flattering. It did satisfy the gothic inspiration. Taking the goth inside the collection to the street, a black suede trench coat was slashed at the waist and on its tail. It bounced about with a careless disregard, as she stomped down the runway in her trainers.
This could be described as a tame revolution. The cuts may be conservative and suitable to the Calvin customer. However, Costa is revolutionising his design aesthetic. A distressed knit sweater with rips and an exposed midriff? A black pailette coat? Sheer, shimmering, lingerie-style dresses? If that isn’t distinctly un-Calvin then I don’t know what is. Albeit, there is still plenty to choose from for the existing customer: jackets, handbags, etc., this collection undoubtedly invites a broader customer-base. This redirection is the most exhilarating thing to happen to Calvin Klein in years.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com