Calvin Klein Collection // Spring 2016 //

My prayers were heard: Francisco Costa designed his second consecutive Calvin Klein Collection that I reacted to positively. His Spring 2016 collection, a reference to the Spring 1994 collection was designed by the eponymous designer. 21 years later, Costa is at the helm and giving us a timely and welcome ode to the 90’s. 

Back in 1994, Ève Salvali, with a blonde buzz cut (like Ruth Bell today) walked the runway in a liquid silk slip dress. Flash-forward and Rianne van Rompaey is wearing a silver, lingerie inspired slip dress with dangling straps, a redux to the original. Also in that collection, there were uses of florals. Paying homage to this, vibrant florals, different to the muted ones seen back then, hit the runway. Daisies and sweet-pea were given the artistic treatment. The most interesting thing was the blur effect on the dresses. Delivering us the most varied and delightful creations in recent memory, it was a breath of fresh, summery air.

Gothic deconstruction played its part in the collection. Karly Loyce, with a supply cut leather cut coat draped over her shoulders, wore silky trousers and a blouse with delicate beading. Pooja Mor’s dress with trailing strips of material wasn’t entirely flattering. It did satisfy the gothic inspiration. Taking the goth inside the collection to the street, a black suede trench coat was slashed at the waist and on its tail. It bounced about with a careless disregard, as she stomped down the runway in her trainers. 

This could be described as a tame revolution. The cuts may be conservative and suitable to the Calvin customer. However, Costa is revolutionising his design aesthetic. A distressed knit sweater with rips and an exposed midriff? A black pailette coat? Sheer, shimmering, lingerie-style dresses? If that isn’t distinctly un-Calvin then I don’t know what is. Albeit, there is still plenty to choose from for the existing customer: jackets, handbags, etc., this collection undoubtedly invites a broader customer-base. This redirection is the most exhilarating thing to happen to Calvin Klein in years. 

Photo Credit: voguerunway.com