Friday, November 6, 2015

Vetements // Spring 2016 //

I’m sure you’ve heard of Vetements. The troupe of anonymous designers, save for Demna Gvasalia, who is the face of the brand. Gvasalia and his six co-designers have accumulated a lot of experience. Gvasalia worked at both Margiela and Louis Vuitton, and the others came from Céline, Balenciaga and Givenchy. Gvasalia was appointed by LVMH to take over the house of Balenciaga from Alexander Wang. Anonymity no more, hey.

I talk a lot about reflections on current times in fashion. Vetements does that to some extent. Genderless fashion is pushed by the label. Men are wearing the women’s clothes, and vice versa. Will genderless fashion ever become ‘a thing’ based on the mushrooming menswear industry? I’m not quite convinced. However, I think it’s great to see it on our runways and in our stores. “The idea was for the dress to be fluid and feminine, but then to fuck it up and make it cool,” Gvasalia told Vogue US.
The check sweaters looked odd and out of place alongside the garish mini-dresses but fit in well with the blazers. The oversized blazers and baggy trousers weren’t flattering on the female models. Genderless fashion can be stylish and flattering. I don’t think this was. 

Gvasalia calls the clothes, “real clothes, not fashion trend,” in the pre-fall 2015 issue of i-D magazine. This collection was presented during ParisFashion Week, not Paris Clothes Week. The label’s name literally translates from French as ‘clothes’. This is something that irks me, considering how much we talk about clothes vs fashion in fashion. 

I am about to present possibly the most controversial statement I’ve ever written on this blog. The clothes in this collection were, nine times out of ten, tasteless and grotesque. There’s hooker chic, which I admittedly love, and there’s trashiness and tackiness. The latter was this collection. A bright yellow corset and black skirt was vile. The coat it was paired with and the beautiful thigh-high boots remotely transformed this look into something nice. The emerald green oversized blazer and dress wasn’t benefitted by the shoes. It was a horrid colour, and a horrid outfit. 

Vogue Runway, Business of Fashion, and I’m sure many others too, have dubbed it as one of the best collections of the season. Kanye West and Travi$ Scott can sit front row. I won’t be buying into the hype. These clothes were not nice. The colours were atrocious. The cuts were terrible. I do love the shoes and sweaters that Vetements produce. They aren’t redeemable in the context of the brand. This was a pretentious vanity project.

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