Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi // Spring 2016 //

Last season Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi had their Preen show at an unused entrance tunnel at King’s Cross Underground station. For Spring 2016 it was the City Hall, home to the Mayor of London and the Greater London Authority. From the geometrically modified spherical shape, to the fascinating interiors, this is the kind of architecture that appeals to me. Hosting the Preen show at another landmark is hallmark to their London Fashion Week presence. The models were illuminated by a combination of good lighting and a white catwalk. The lightness allowed for the gorgeous clothes to be seem optimally. 

There was something quite sensual about this collection. We have heard the word “romantic” thrown about recently and to be perfectly honest, we’ve seen it in different shapes and forms. There’s Sarah Burton’s dark romance, and Simone Rocha’s romance with ample sexuality. There was a unique riff on both of those things here with Bregazzi explaining they were looking at a “beautiful romance.” There was the exposed skin: shoulders, hip, thigh; the sheer fabrics, the hoops connecting fabric, lace. Exposed shoulders are fashion's latest interest. Look upon most runways and you’ll see them. Heretofore, I haven’t found the trend to be as effective as possible. Thornton and Bregazzi quickly shifted my mindset. Whether it was the cream, floral-printed dress with a ruffled hem or the lacy, electric blue dress with a bare shoulder, encircled by frothy ruffles. 

The hazy sensuality experienced in the first part of the collection starkly contrasted with the biker jackets, and lace over leather, heavier materials and darker colours, as seen in the second half of the collection. Emmy Rappe’s black lace top was paired with a PVC peplum skirt with a rise-and-fall hemline and Oxfords. Amilna Estevão’s navy trouser suit was festooned with silver hardware. Those two looks are just two examples of the dark masculine/feminine air in the collection, which juxtaposed nicely with the breezier opening looks. You couldn’t say that there wasn’t something for everyone. 

Known for their geometric prints, the duo stayed true to their roots and found the perfect balance between dark and light in tow. There were bright florals on black backgrounds with patches of white. Hemlines grazed the calf. 

The Spring collections have had some brilliant highlights. I rank this among them. There is something about Thornton and Bregazzi’s spellbinding ways that can never cease to excite me. 
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com

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