Thursday, October 1, 2015

Min Wu // Spring 2016 //

The BFC Presentation Space in the Institute of Contemporary Arts is a nice venue for a presentation. A few weeks ago during London Fashion Week, when the BFC installed themselves there, some designers were given the opportunity to present there. Danielle Romeril’s ‘Paradise Lost,’ Faustine Steinmetz’s Dali-inspired show, Claire Barrow’s environmental outcry and Molly Goddard’s sandwich shop, all showed in the space on the official schedule. On the digital schedule, Chinese designer Min Wu presented her new short film accompanying her Spring 2016 collection. Projected onto the wall was a proclamation of friendship and happiness. The collection, however, wasn’t so much based on happiness, or emotion for that matter. It was based on body adjustment and muscle structure. The casing used on the body to help with “spinal problems,” was one mark of inspiration for Wu. Bruises were another source and could be seen—used strategically in the collection. 

If you look at the colours in the round-bottomed flasks, beakers, and conical flasks, colour can be seen, ranging from purple to a greyish yellow. Bruises. Used in the props in the collection, the print also lent itself to the clothing. Seen on sporty shorts, and flecked like spots on sculptural tops and skirts, or pasted haphazardly on clean cut trousers. 

Rosy and salmon hues are used to represent the familiar image of the body, detailing the muscle. Separated lines emerge to display the strings—the muscles—that we’re made up of.
The finer details of the collection refer back to the idea of a spinal cast. One top, it’s collar separated from the body only by the sliver of material containing the buttons. The backs of the looks featured fastened buckles with three lines dispersing from the buckle. You can almost imagine the look as an extension of a neck brace. The most fashionable neck or back brace that I’ve ever seen.

I could be poetic and say that the use of the bruise as a print stems from an anguished person. However, sometimes it’s better to just observe these wearable, kitsch pieces and absorb their beauty. Fashion can be better in black and white, but it’s far more fun to experience it through the vibrant colours of bruises, used in this collection. 
All photos are my own

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