One review that sticks in my mind is Maya Singer’s of a Toga collection. Towards the end of the review she stresses that Furuta needs a runway, not presentation, to display her collections.. I bet she is somewhere—probably Paris—still rejoicing because Yasuko Furuta had a runway presentation for her Spring 2016 during London Fashion Week last week. I too was celebrating as the “complex woman” in Furuta’s mind is best served by a movement, the multi-faceted textures and silhouettes carrying in the powerful strut of the models.
“Petals, minerals, squiggles.” Presenting us with a conceptual daydream in the show notes which offered complexity and thought. “Minerals and plants simply exist on land and in the sea,” it begins. “No amount of calculation can replicate their colours, forms, or scents. Their intense appearances are at once beautiful, nocuous and fragile.” The beauty of all these things transcend time, and are incalculable. That is very reflective of Toga collections. Trends and time aren’t applicable. It is set in the present, the hustle and bustle of the moment.
Undulating silk cord embroideries in vibrant hues “hint at cockscombs.” Nepenthes Truncata have been replicated, appearing in large ruffles. Materials are amalgamated, “like seaweed on the shore.” The “ethereal floating colours of jellyfish,” are on printed tulle. You’ll notice gold spangles on a bodice, signifying scales. In true Toga style, all of these components were mashed up together in some looks to create a truly spellbinding medley of texture in nature, through vivid colours and a mixture of materials.
In the ten minutes you spend watching Furuta’s collections, you can’t help but be refreshed amidst the chaos. It is a palette cleanser; even in London where anything goes. Each Toga collection contains some of the same ingredients, yet the result is different every time. Complex notes, complex women, complex collection. Regardless of complexity, beauty radiates.
Images Courtesy of The Wolves. Photography by Alessandro Garofola.