Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Jason Wu // Spring 2016 //

I’ve been watching the new crop of models intently over the past few months. Dazed spotlighted them in their autumn issue, with Lineisy Montero and Molly Bair gracing the cover, respectively. Inside, editorials were dedicated individually to select models; and as a collective. Teen Vogue had Montero, Aya Jones and Imaan Hammam. The next generation is everywhere. It was only fitting that Jason Wu have some of those willowy creatures take to the runway of his show on Friday afternoon. Lineisy Montero opened. Avery Blanchard, Frederikke Sofie featured. There was an assortment of newbies in this collection which also presented us with something new. Well, reflective. 

For his Spring 2013 collection, three years ago, Wu showed a dark side to his woman. It was darker than anything he’d done. That sinister side of the brand returned for Spring 2016. Mica Arganaraz’ navy jacket with frayed edges and matching flouncy skirt was the first glimpse of this. A black jacket looked like a cocoon or shell, fit for war. The black and navy managed to stand out in the sea of summery hues. 
On the topic of summery hues, emerald is a colour which Wu has decided women need next year. The belted coat that opened the show was in the colour—featuring frayed edges resembling lace. A slinky, sheer dress in the colour is perfect for anything outing in the next 12 months. I hope to see it on Jessica Chastain on the red carpet soon. 

A subtle pink also appeared in the collection. Paired with a muted burnt orange skirt and a rust coloured bag, the dusty rose wool cropped sweater looked amazing. The colour intensified later in the collection when a peachy, layered-silk dress festooned with cascading ruffles took to the runway. The sheer nature of the dress, and the collection for that mother, exuded a feminine sensuality—something that I think Wu perfects.

It was, naturally, ultra-feminine but the shiny navy leather and swept back hair showed that the Wu women is not messing around. She’s here to conquer. 

Photo Credit: voguerunway.com

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