Massimo Giorgetti’s ready-to-wear debut at Pucci is something that I’ve been highly anticipating since he presented his ‘Pilot Episode’ during men’s fashion week in Florence in June. Since then, he’s been working on his Spring 2016 collection, which is obviously one of Milan’s hottest tickets.
If London designers were looking to Victoriana, then Milanese designers were going to a time transcending place, something simple and relevant to all of us (at some point): the beach. Seagulls, and seashells. Giorgetti "sells sea shells by the sea shore” is something that I’ve seen in lieu of the show. Oh, I love it. The inspiration wasn’t exactly allusive. The idea of beachwear and nautical dressing in fashion is almost always literal. Giorgetti, as much as his execution was literal, he added a rebellious touch to the common trope. Nautical lines weren't horizontal. Instead they were diagonal, going every which way. There was white with black stripes, black with white stripes. Blue chevron. Fie upon tradition, says Giorgetti.
Photo Credit: voguerunway.com
Print is integral to the Pucci brand and it’s interesting to see how Giorgetti is taking things away from Peter Dundas' ultra sexual oeuvre. There’s something geekier in the water. For starters there’s the scuba-diver inspired sunglasses that, to me, embodied a cool geeky sensibility. There’s also abstract expressionist bibs, for the art nerd.
A rash guard-esque silver top was worn under a sequin embellished plunging neckline dress. There was a multi-coloured kaftan. The most intriguing beach references were the netted trousers festooned with starfish, turtles, mermaids, coral, lobsters, pearls oysters, or a similar black dress. The street-style bait within this collection was the sequinned crop top with the above prints. The encyclopaedic references of everything related to sea proved to be Giorgetti’s oyster.
Like it or not, the identity of this historic brand is shifting under its new creative director. Dundas reshaped this brand; Giorgetti is reshaping the brand again. There seems to be no correlation between past and present Pucci. Gone are the days of sexy mini dresses and flowing ball gowns with thigh high splits. Here are the days of “humour and innovation,” which looks to be targeted towards a slightly different customer. This Spring 2016 collection had some fantastic looks, but some needed to be worked on. Perhaps in a few months, the direction of the new Pucci will become a little more clearer. Until then, feast your eyes upon this quirky undersea expedition.