Friday, August 21, 2015

Rochas // Fall 2015 //

The fashion world is celebrating many anniversaries this year. Elle have their 70th (in France) and 30th (in the US & UK) anniversaries this year. Karl Lagerfeld has been designing at Italian label Fendi for half a centenary. A French brand, Rochas was founded in 1925 by Marcel Rochas. 2015 marks the 90th anniversary of the historic house. Purveying in fashion and perfume, the house was given the joie de vivre in 2002 that would propel it to be the revered house it was under the founder. Olivier Theyskens took the reins and reinvented the brand for 4 years. The fashion division was shelved in 2006. Two years later in 2008, Marco Zanini was appointed as artistic director of the brand. For five years he steered the brand in the a good direction. The product of this journey was fabulously designed clothes to please the masses. In 2014, Alessandro Dell’Acqua replaced Zanini who departed the house. He had the honours of designing the 90th anniversary collection and opted to reflect on the past in a modern way.
Guests were presented with a photograph from the 30’s, depicting a young woman wearing Rochas. The collection in 1934 was dedicated to the passerine birds. The neckline to the hemline was fashioned with a swallow motif. Look 15 was a mocha coloured satin dress. The top featured migrating black swallows, contrasting nicely against the mocha. Plumage can be seen throughout the collection also. Look 29 was festooned with bird feathers. The mixture of different textures such as the ones in this look became a recurring motif. A pleated skirt and bustier combo contained silk and rayon with shimmering chrysanthemums, and swallow embellishments. Wool and silk also juxtaposed nicely. The sheeny silk against the soft wool was interesting combination, especially when you take into account the swallow printing and the jewelled chrysanthemums. 

A burgundy wool dress was styled with a yellow mohair, four-pocket coat. The two rich colours were stunning. The use of army green without it appearing as militaristic further displayed Dell’Acqua’s skill. The only army these clothes would be seen in is an legion of well-dressed posh women. 

Some people were instantly reminded of Miu Miu’s Spring 2010 collection in which swallows decorated the navy, red, and black looks. The two collections are completely different other than that motif. Dell’Acqua’s Rochas didn’t have the lighthearted vibe as the Miu Miu collection did. This offering wasn’t as playful. Playful or not it was a damn good collection. He honoured the past, stayed true to the present and set out what the women of the future would wear. That’s a feat, and it was achieved with finesse. 

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