Friday, August 14, 2015

Marc Jacobs // Resort 2016 //

During New York Fashion Week in February, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier would present their last Marc by Marc Jacobs collection. The collection provided a feminist and political stance on fashion. I thought it was their best collection to date. In March it was announced that the diffusion line would be folding into the main, Marc Jacobs label. The new regime will see the two combined. A lower price will be set on some garments and accessories; the MBMJ portion, and the rest will be priced as usual. Some reported that this move could bewilder consumers: not being able to separate two labels. The IPO for the brand is coming soon, so this business move may not have been entirely unpredictable. 
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There is a lot of change going on for Marc Jacobs. He simultaneously stepped down from his positions at MBMJ and Louis Vuitton. He appointed two talented designers at the brand before folding it. His photographer of choice changed. His brand will be put up for IPO. There is so much happening, but Jacobs remains focused; his eye on the prize: optimising his eponymous label. 

Resort 2016 was an extension of that optimisation. Consistently presented strong collections is Jacobs’ forte.  Returning editors to salon show format, the show was held at his Mercer Street store. Amber Valletta emerged first, wearing a black headscarf. Her broderie anglaise two-piece skirt suit was gorgeous. Have a supermodel of the past and a gorgeous look to grasp the attention of the show-goers from the beginning was clever. Brooches and other adornments were haphazardly places. "The eye has to travel", his muse, Diana Vreeland, once said. 

If you look at any newsstand, you’ll be sure to see Miley Cyrus rocking look 9 on the September cover of US Marie Claire. The intricately detailed mini dress with broderie anglaise detailing. 

There was a nautical air about look 15. The red, white and black striped waffle-knit cashmere cropped sweater was paired with high waisted trousers. The excessive amount of buttons instilled the nautical vibe. 

The finale looks comprised of St. Gallen lace techniques. Chiffon underneath taffeta, worn with a broderie anglaise bodice with an embellished sheer yoke. Another look was a black and white palm tree print gown. Glittering red brushstrokes enriched parts of the dress. Perched on the shoulder of the dress was an array of colourful feathers. 

Marc Jacobs keeps enlightening audiences. He’s on par with Miuccia Prada as one of the only designers that you have to expect the unexpected. It may be startling, the constant 180 degree turns, but it keeps you guessing. You’ll probably be wrong, but it’s insanely fun.

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