Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Alexander Wang // Resort 2016 //

Alexander Wang has opened his first London flagship store. A former post office, the 7,000 square-foot store is situated on Albermarle Street in Mayfair. It is home to the menswear and womenswear collections, the diffusion line T by Alexander Wang, and accessories. Designed by Vincent van Duysen, the store is exactly what you’d expect from Wang; luxurious with a rough edge, an Instagrammic dreamland. Later this year, hitting the floors will be the Resort 2016 collection. Presented in a presentation format in New York City, the collection exuded the utilitarianism we’ve come to expect from Wang. 

There was an idea of wearable tech within the collection. We’ve seen Apple’s iWatch and Samsung’s Gear watches. Google released their Google Glass in 2014. Alexander Wang was inspired by QR codes, a type of two-dimensional bar code. These were emblazoned on different looks. One in particular—a long sleeve cotton top—had a few technological references including a QR-code. Paired with it was a calf-skin leather bustier mini-dress. Lisbeth Salander, anyone? These outfits had The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo written all over them. Perhaps, a subtler version.
'Jackets galore' would be an apt description of this collection. There was an oversized, wool, houndstooth windbreaker. If that didn’t take your fancy, you had the option of a sulphur-coloured, military-inspired parka. The sulphur colour recurred, appearing in an oversized trench coat (which certainly surprised me). A calf-skin cropped motorcycle jacket is another Lisbeth Salander-esqe look. 

The accessories in the collection stood out. The lambskin ‘Rockie’ mini shoulder-bag will be toted Wang fanatics during the Spring season. His show (September 12) will no doubt see the runway lined with guests wearing it. I’m also expecting to see the bovine leather ‘Mason’ duffle bag. The shoes were buckle fastened flatforms. They were a toned down and summery version of the pinkish stompers at the Fall 2015 show (which I disliked). 

Something that may have slipped to the wayside is the blush-coloured scalloped slip dress with lace details and metal embellishments. Simple yet stunning. Delicate with a signature Alexander Wang edge. 

Resort, like pre-fall, is considered to be the taster to the season ahead, or a reflection on the season past. Pre-collections can be the breadwinners, making up for a large chunk of sales. Alexander Wang spoke to Dazed magazine and said “I would love not having to do pre-collections. If we could do pre-collections that were just for the stores and the clientele I would be happy with that”. Most designers, especially ones growing their business would agree with this. On top of that people make the resort collection a spectacle: "it’s like everyone has to make it into something”. The larger houses certainly do this. “After each collection, we’ve got to get better”. Alexander Wang and his team seemed to have nailed this. 

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