Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Simone Rocha // Fall 2015 //

Often the fashion world draws on its not-so-distant cousin, the art world, for inspiration. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley were inspired by William Morris for their third Marc by Marc Jacobs collection. The boys at Proenza Schouler looked to sculptor Robert Morris and Helen Frankenthaler. For Resort 2016, J.W. Anderson showcased his collection in former Tate curator Jim Ede's house in Cambridge. In London, Simone Rocha sought inspiration from a familiar source - to her anyway - Louise Bourgeois. Rocha wrote her thesis on Bourgeois according to Tim Blanks of Familiarity works a charm and Simone showed us that this season. She held the show at London’s Guildhall, built in 1411. The ecclesiastical-esqe setting and the clashing score provided an intriguing scene for the show. Models walked along the runway with stained glass windows visible, adding to the ominous tone.
The aforementioned William Morris was present here. A folded, ruffled cape with a floral print resembling tapestry adorned on lavish walls. Certain idiosyncrasies such as the glittering embellishments and the mohair accent were added, staying true to Simone’s non-conforming ways. Ruffles are a classic aspect of her collection’s that add the romance. Asymmetric shapes also do this. Sheer pale pink dresses with asymmetric padded mesh over them were beautiful. Similar looks using red florals also used this padded mesh. Chenille upholstery was used also, resembling tweet. The visceral red cape-wearing model at the end was a true warrior woman. 
If I don’t attend a fashion show, I love seeing the images almost instantlyy on NowFashion or However, I much prefer watching the Youtube video or live stream of a show. With the videos come comment. Youtube comments are few and far between on most fashion show videos. I stumbled across a few ones on Simone’s video this season, that helped me gauge others thoughts and opinions. “Nice inspiration but peculiarly executed,” one person wrote. “Her designs are unique. Romantic but with a perverse touch. One of my [favourites from] LFW,” wrote another. These statements are correct. Simone did choose to execute the inspiration strangely. For example, translating the exhibition L’araignée et les Tapesseries into your collection would be difficult. Simone referenced the shapes and dark colours. Pink and reds were used to refer to Bourgeois’s piece Mamelles (1991). 
Simone is a wunderkind. A maverick. Her pedestal in the fashion industry is one that is shrined and regarded with the utmost respect. She holds the same respect for fashion and those that inspire her. The product of this is fabulously executed collections, season after season. 
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