Victoriana and futuristic tech were amalgamated for Mary Katrantzou’s Fall 2015 collection. Horror vacui is the "fear of empty space”. The Victorians were obsessed with fully furnishing their abodes with decoration, from top to bottom. When you look at the tech aspect of the collection you see plastic, sponge pyramids (the runway was a bright pink carpet with these pyramids), embossed blocks, plexiglass. The surface decoration is how Katrantzou operates. It is present in all her collections. She tells Tim Blanks of Style.com that she is "offended when people call me a maximalist,” because she works with surface decoration mixed with purist lines and shapes. This idea greeted you when Jamie Bochert emerged wearing a grey top and skirt, with a flared hemline, that featured a band of pink pyramids. Mica Arganaraz came out in a peplum top and flared ankle-length trousers. A yellow band of pyramids adorned her hip.
Winter’s stylish parka was served, courtesy of Ms. Katrantzou. A mix of red, pink and purple, the coat was equipped with a plastic lined hood. A tapestry-esqe fur coat was also available. Irina Kravchenko wore a coat with a navy fur top with brown leaf-motifs, a pink strip separating the top from an olive green skirt with hexagonal plexiglass accents.
The flared skirts present through out the collection were a highlight. As models kick-walked, the full effect of the gorgeous flare was shown. Look 32, worn by Mica, was an army green top with a contrasting black floral print. Her grey skirt featured a layered, ruffled skirt with the same print. Jamie Bochert took to the runway once more in a similar look, the finale look. Her electric blue strapless bustier featured the same print. The black skirt featured the blue print. A lovely look closing out a splendid presentation.
Mary Katrantzou is London’s finest, possibly best established designer. She will be a household name in the next few years, if she isn’t already. Vogue and the British Fashion Council awarded her their Fashion Fund of £200,000. The grant will be used to provide the necessary infrastructure for to help take her to the next stage of her business. This funding is amazing. It will be very interesting to see where the future takes her brand. “Mary Katrantzou is one of our standout designers of the moment,” Alexandra Shulman, editor-in-chief of British Vogue, said. That she is.
Photo Credit: style.com & nowfashion.com