The generous support of Topshop has helped London Fashion Week nurture emerging talent over the years. Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East has been supported by Topshop in the past, showcasing the talent of designers such as Simone Rocha, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, Jonathan Saunders and Gareth Pugh. Topshop’s funded NEWGEN programme has also benefitted these designers. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have shown - with assistance from the retail giant - their Marques’Almeida collections since 2012. They reached the finals of the LVMH Prize, which they went on to win (€300,000). The duo’s signature frayed denim look is easily recognisable. It is an emblem of their transcending, experimental label.
As the lights descended upon the runway at the Topshop Show Space in the spacious Tate Britain and the first model wearing a red asymmetric skirt with a frayed hem under a matching faux-fur coat - it was clear that the M’A collection was going to be an unapologetic burst of colour. The designers always use colour but this season the vast majority of it was tonal before a slew of bricolage-esqe brocades at the end. From red to indigo to an acidy-denim to pink to emerald to orange to purple, the collection was bulging with colour and I loved everything.
To me, the collection felt very nomadic. The scarves worn around the models necks along with the metallic riding boots they wore permeated a vivid landscape of lands that were discovered by the M'A girl. The sunny hues added to this element.
Yes, Marques’Almeida have purveyed denim since the labels founding. It’s how they use it and the simultaneous use of colour that keeps things interesting. Prints marked their first appearance this season. A rich use of materials and the bright colours used added depth to the collection. Faux fur coats were given an M’A spin. They embodied the cool girl persona that is the Marques’Almeida muse. The variety on show was outstanding. With LVMH backing and mentoring, the future is bright and to be explored.
All above: wallpaper.com
Above image: tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com
Above image: twinfactory.co.uk