Monday, July 20, 2015

HEMYCA // Fall 2015 //

Morten Tyldum’s Oscar-nominated film ‘The Imitation Game’ raked in $220 million globally. The film had a number of enticing aspects. Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley were the leading stars. It was a World War II film depicting the breaking of the German intelligence Enigma codes and focused on Alan Turing, a homosexual mathematician and logician. In London, not-so-distant from the filming locations, two designers sought inspiration from the empowered women of Bletchley Park in Buckinghamshire. Myra Nigris and Helen Clinch, designer duo behind HEMYCA were inspired by the film and titled their collection ‘Decrypt’, with the subheading of Generation Overload. 

The empowerment of a woman struck a note with the women for Fall. This feminist stance in fashion was seen also at Claire Barrow during London Fashion Week. The women of Bletchley Park had a design named after them. They were the code breakers who helped support, decrypt and crack the enigma code. The garments being named after the women was employed as a tribute to strong women. 

The collection was stunning. Models stood on erected podiums and smouldered for the myriad of photographers, including myself. Storm grey, black, pale blue and oxblood contrasted with the black and grey print design. There were long sleeves, pleated skirts and modest hemlines. Nothing was overexposed and the collection produced “a second skin whilst giving support and strength from inside out”. The clothes were about sensuality and feminine elegance. I loved the prints, especially on the trousers or triangular ones on dresses. 

The London-based luxury womenswear label is fronted by women designing for women. Womenswear is surprisingly male-dominated. Anna Wintour said recently in an Oxford Union talk that she wishes there were more female designers. Thankfully, there is Nigris and Clinch to answer that prayer. The duo are also shining the light on their atelier. The open-air terrace of Broadgate Circle is where HEMYCA will take residency with an interactive installation and pop-up show. From the 6th to the 24th of July, the public are available to go behind-the-scenes of the fashion industry with “a series of talks, demonstrations and digital displays, housed within a visually captivating, temporary structure”. Inspirations, the start-to-finish process of making collections, the atelier; where made-to-order garments will be made: this will all be on show. This is all still running until Friday the 24th 

You certainly don’t have to be a cryptographer to decrypt this collection. Everything was beautifully, and logically, laid out in a fashionable way. The clothes embodied refined elegance. “What you choose to wear represents your identity,” read the press release. That statement is of the utmost truth. A woman’s individuality and ability to stand out and be unique and “free from the data mass”. With these clothes, a woman can do just that. HEMYCA is her platform to channel her true identity. 
Photos are my own
Disclaimer: I have been asked to talk about the installation and pop-up shop, though it is not paid advertorial.

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