Thursday, July 9, 2015

Erdem // Fall 2015 //

Manic Monday - as I like to call it - during London Fashion Week can provide us with the best shows of the week. The day is jam packed from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. with brilliant shows, every hour on the hour. Erdem is one of the shows that I always have to pay attention to. His richly beautiful clothing is always a standout. This season, no exception. Looking to the 70’s for inspiration, Moralioglu’s delivery was Hithchcockian glamour at its best.

Hosted at the Old Selfridge’s Hotel, in demand models, Alexandra Elizabeth, Stella Lucia, Molly Bair, all walked in the 36-piece collection. They pounded the runway in reversed jacquards, frayed tweeds and feather-embrodiered florals. The metallic jacquards with vertical slits and embellished bodices contrasted with the floral printed skirt. Look 9 was a black, ankle-length coat with a pink metallic floral printed tail. 

For Spring 2013, Moralioglu incorporated animal print - snakeskin to be precise - and this season, uncharacteristically, leopard print was employed. A fur two piece, resembling a black tweed one that Chanel would do, was paired with Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem riding boots (worn by all models). The following look was a leopard print fur coat, lined with cream fur.
In London, we don’t usually get a set-piece for fashion shows. Mary Katrantzou had a pink pyramid-shaped carpet. Gareth Pugh held his 10 year anniversary show in a vestibule at the V&A. Burberry erect a huge tent in the Kensignton Gardens. Jonathan Saunders had rainbow-coloured pillars line his runway. Moralioglu gave us the mise-en-scène that London Fashion Week has been craving for seasons. After being inspired by an art installation The Collection, at the Helly Nahmad Gallery. An apartment scene was recreated by production designer Robin Brown. At the end of the show, models led by Alexandra Elizabeth did their final walk. Before reaching backstage they halted. The lights dimmed, the models took their place. When we emerged from darkness the models became a part of the set, perched on chairs or leaning against walls. It was quite the spectacle. 

A theatrical set and fine offering, Erdem’s fall 2015 collection proves that he is not one to be missed on an overcrowded schedule.
Collage images:
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