Different brands conjure up different connotations. For me, a brand like Ralph Lauren is a glamourous, all-American womenswear brand with timeless classics. Chanel I would associate with its iconic tweeds and fantastic show pieces. Calvin Klein Collection, designed by Francisco Costa, is the label I associated with minimalism. This wasn’t necessarily a good things as over the years I felt the label became very dull and boring, churning out the same things season after season. Costa defied that minimalism for Fall 2015 and gave us something anarchic and much-needed.
When the first model came out in an animal hyde, black coat with large buttons, a leather dress underneath and leather skin-tight trousers I was flummoxed. That flummoxing immediately turned to delight as I realised this was to be the best Calvin collection yet. Zlata Semenko’s blush coat was given a tough, unexpected edge with its black buttons and leather trousers. Other blush looks were given a toughening with black, grommeted belts. Ribbed wool was frayed, patchwork was in sharp shapes. There was a lustrousness to this collection, both metaphorically and physically. This collection shone bright in a usually forgettable week. Physically, silver and shiny black accents were placed on accessories and the outfits. Patent leather shoes were light reflective.
Lou Reed and Molina’s polaroids inspired Costa for the collection. Transporting us to 1960’s New York, specifically the Lower East Side, this collection showed a darker side, and that times are changing (like they were in the Lower East Side in the ’60’s). His Resort 2016 collection did present an indication that this new direction for the Calvin Klein Collection brand may be here to stay. For that, I am grateful.
Caroline de Maigret, said “it wasn’t the image I had of Calvin Klein. It was very rock and roll”. This statement echoed my thoughts. This wasn’t the Calvin Klein I had usually just watched the livestream of and clicked out after a few minutes. This collection piqued my interest. In fact: it stunned me.
Photo Credit: style.com