Rahul Mishra, an Indian designer based in Mumbai and Delhi and shows in Paris. In 2014, he was the recipient of the International Woolmark Prize - beating out wunderkind Joseph Altuzarra. I was quite excited to see what he had to offer for Fall 2015. The Palais de Tokyo was to host the presentation. The collection was titled ‘The Village’, and the invite came equipped with a Gandhian Philosophy quote “the soul of humanity lies in its villages’. A quick Google search presents me with many pages of information on Indian villages. They have their weaknesses, but have undoubted strengths. The people work hard and use limited natural resources - food, shelter and clothes. The collection both connoted and denoted to villages.
The clothes were simple but evocative. Sharply tailored hemlines were combated with a dash of sexiness. The sensual collection saw thigh high splits, sheer details and power dressing. The looks were provocative but not overtly sexy. Employing the poetic technique of imagery, Mishra’s colour palette (consisting of electric blue, black, taupe, pink and white) was enriched with intricate etchings. Many were emblazoned with the bird from the invitation and some, upon closer inspection, featured a slew of houses - a literal interpretation of the title of the show.
Sensual splits were layered with eyelet sheer fabrics. For Spring the looks were decidedly heavier rather than airy. The course wool which was used by the Indian designer instigated this. I believe that this created an interesting, yet odd balance. The sheer fabrics (and in some cases the colour white) were frothy but the thicker material blended soft and hard components which was quite interesting to see.
Villages in India, equipped with their strengths and weaknesses resonated with this collection. Sometimes, unfortunately, I grew tired of repetitive shapes. There were aspects of the collection, such as its sensuality, that visually satiated my hunger for well designed wares.
Photo Credit: wwd.com