Timur Kim was born in Saint Petersburg, Russia. He is of Korean descent. In 2006 he moved to London to commence a BA, and later an MA, at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He was taught by the late Louise Wilson, OBE, and is the youngest ever MA graduate of fashion at CSM. Establishing his own label in 2012 - after reaping experience from working alongside Alexander McQueen - Kim has gone on to present off-off-schedule during London Fashion Week at the London School of Economics. For Spring 2015 he presented a palette with a burst of colours in his signature clean cut lines style. For Fall 2015 he rebuked the bright and instead opted for sombre hues expressing the titular emotion of the collection, ‘Anger’.
Inspirations came from all different places. Yves Saint Laurent, 90’s magazines, Dolce & Gabbana, Donnie Darko, the Silent Hill video games. The horror element of the collection provided an interesting juxtaposition with the theme of anger.
Another sojourn for Kim, he embarks this time “on a journey exploring sartorial embodiments of emotion”. Anger sprouted in Kim’s mind and “the struggle to control it” was also present. The performance art piece that was on display at the presentation perfectly conveyed the emotion at hand. Four models. Three circled one perched on a fold out chair. The one sitting was wearing a paper headpiece, the three models each tore some of it off - showing us their anger. The clothes also displayed the lack of control. A blip in the mood. A “disturbance” as the press release eloquently calls it. “Beginning calmly”, the denim looks were “tempered” with patches of delicate embroidery and leather. The textures in the looks were second to none. Milky leather, dainty embroidery and denim, unsurprisingly, make a hell of a combination and Kim employed that here - using it to his advantage.
All of the outfits were cut and sewn by Kim. This artistic method is few and far between in the current fashion and economic climate. It is to be commended here as there were seventeen different looks, all hand-crafted in-house. Hand-painting was another element of the collection. The shoes were also done by the in-house team. The heels were two bowling balls stacked on top of each other. This continues Kim’s fascination with bowling balls, and they are a recurring motif in his collections.
I am usually not a fan of performance art. I think it’s highly pretentious. But so am I and so is the fashion industry. There’s no avoiding it. This presentation executed the arts perfectly. Despite a glum mood this season, bright things are ahead for Timur Kim.
Photos are my own