Peter Copping made his defection to New York in October following his final bow from Nina Ricci (where Guillaume Henry will take the helm in March during Paris Fashion Week). In New York he was set to work with Oscar de la Renta who had hired him to take the tenure at his eponymous label. Unfortunately things didn’t go to plan. Mr. de la Renta passed away before they had the chance to work together. Copping said in his show notes that not getting the chance to work with Oscar is something he deeply regrets.
For the debut collection at the esteemed brand during New York Fashion Week, Copping wanted ‘to honour Oscar’s legacy and start a new chapter for the house’. He also wanted to thank Alex and Eliza Bolen, and the teams in the studio for their support and help of settling him in. The first show was welcomed in open arms by New York’s elite. Editors, Barbara Walters, Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss all were perched on the front to watch the beginning of a new era.
Loyal ODLR fans will be head over heels for this collection. It remained true to its late predecessor, but also added a Parisian flare thanks to the new designer. Geometric printed pieces were given an effective enrichment thanks to fur, colours and florals. Ladies who lunch. The outfits were definitely perfect for ladies who were about to dine at the Plaza for a gossip filled luncheon. Anna Wintour would look great in these looks. Rich colours such as deep cobalt blue, fuchsia, chartreuse, deep merlot and liquid gold will suit women of all ages.
The final gowns had a Copping infused Oscar de la Renta gleam. Models wore gorgeous waist enhancing gowns in black and gold, pink or chartreuse. With the Academy Awards on Sunday, stylists are pulling looks left, right and centre from this collection. I personally felt their was a mournful air in the house and visibly in the collection. The hues were noticeably darker than usual, even for Fall. And despite the loss of a fantastic designer we have been ensured a with a clearly well capable designer. As Oscar de la Renta once said “the great thing about fashion is that it always moves forward,”.