Friday, February 27, 2015

Shrimps // Fall 2015 //

Hannah Weiland’s second London Fashion Week collection stood out on Friday’s jam packed schedule. Star Trek met The Wizard of Oz for the Fall 2015 collection which was held at the BFC Presentation Space which branched off the River Terrace at Somerset House. Inside the show space which resembled a starry night from floor to walls our Dorothy was a faux fur clad, red lip wearing beauty. 

Outside the presentation PR’s and fans were dressed in Weiland’s now iconoclastic faux furs. Their colourful hues were eye catching and displayed how fans of the brand are loyal and looking forward to seeing what was on offer. They were in luck. Emerald green for the Emerald City and bright hues of yellow and mustard for the Yellow Brick Road which Dorothy & Co. parade upon. The lion-like tangerine colours could be the Cowardly Lion’s mane or the straw of the brainless Scarecrow and shimmering silvers the heartless Tin Man. Contrasting aquas lined canary yellow coats and grey-blue jackets with pink and red kilts. Childlike illustrations were emblazoned on some of the sweaters and clutches. Multi-coloured beaded clutches were a standout accessory. 

The 13 piece collection was luxurious. No animals endangered in the production of the brilliant furs which Weiland puts a unique spin on each season. One might say that faux fur coats season after season will become monotonous. Nay. Fie upon on that thought. Different colour codes, branching into other outerwear such as kilts and wool sweaters is a sustainable and fashion-forward direction. Creation of kitsch accessories is also a talent which Weiland has acquired from her experience in the fashion industry. This animated display on the opening day of LFW was memorable and sartorially so.  
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Thursday, February 26, 2015

Faustine Steinmetz // Fall 2015 //

Faustine Steinmetz showcased her sophomore schedule at the BFC Presentation Space at Somerset House on Saturday morning. The static presentation (which saw Caroline Rush, Caroline Issa, and Brix Smith Start, doting her gorgeous black pug, in attendance) was, simply put, wonderful. At her first on-schedule outing in September, Faustine presented an all denim collection bar one look. This season she expanded on what people presumed was her trademark. This season, there was denim lookalikes. Texturising was key here. Materials were in guise as denim. These imposters were a refreshing take on the timeless classic, and further contained the wealth of talent that Faustine possesses.
Collaborations were also on Faustine’s mind for Fall. Julia Thomas, who graduated with MA degree from the Royal College of Art, following her time at Cordwainers and the London College of Fashion. She won the Manolo Blahnik Award at her the RCA in 2013. Her talent, undeniably, unique - her painted creations for Faustine’s collection were perfect. Her credentials - stints at two fantastic and established shoe brands Nicholas Kirkwood and Jimmy Choo. Set design came from Thomas Petherick who graduated from the University of London with a BA in design. His strong aesthetic has seen him work with LOVE. DAZED, Interview Magazine and Fashion East. Faustine working with these two creatives helped enhance the collection.
In her collection, Faustine was inspired by the way we consume clothes - how pieces become throwaways and she brings us covetable and innovative items. Innovative wardrobe staples is something most women lack in their vast wardrobes. Look to Faustine to find brushed wool felted denim, or silicone and cotton denim lookalikes. Handwoven tracksuits, hand felted polo dresses, and handwoven, smudged underwear can all be found in the collection. Buyers, many of whom were present at the show, will be snapping up this collection which is more wearable than her artisanal debut. 
This NEWGEN supported designer is destined for great things as I outlined in my Spring 2015 review. This season however gave us insight into the possible direction of which Faustine may take. This more commercial yet insanely creative and unique offering from the French designer was a stunning feast for the eyes on a chilly Saturday morning. The clothes positively brightened up my day.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Eudon Choi // Fall 2015 //

Eudon Choi’s gender blending genius continued for Fall 2015. The second presentation to be held in Somerset House’s BFC Courtyard Space, Eudon commissioned a set for the runway. Red and grey brutalist architecture decked the strip of catwalk where models wore his beautiful wares. Last season I was a tad blasé by his offerings. This season, on the contrary, I was more than impressed. I was in love.

The collection opened with a slew of lovely outerwear. The artistic element to the collection was notable. Architecturally sculptured outfits, draped looks and Japonaiserie á la Van Gogh also were shown. This collection, perhaps Eudon’s most artistically driven outing, was welcomed in open arms. The opening look a rich dark army green leather jacket featuring a white circle. Underneath a navy skirt with floral details and a buckle belt, and a simple crisp white buttoned up shirt completed the look. There was a lot going on here, but I believe it was executed perfectly. Another look that caught my eye was Look 5. White wide leg trousers, conforming with the 70’s trend of the season, was paired with a two tone (navy and floral) wool sweater with a side split and featured buttons. Orange heels rounded out the look. 
Things got increasingly more interesting when the Japonaiserie was shown. The satin materials shown in the penultimate segment of the presentation were in vivid hues of chartreuse and magenta (similar to Copping’s ODLR debut palette). The black tuxedo two piece of Look 24 featured a magenta hem on the blazer and on the waist of the flared ankle length trousers. The final troupe of red and black Oriental inspired outfits rounded out a great effort from Eudon.

The second presentation of London Fashion Week was just as good as the first, in its own unique way. I’m going to run out of superlatives for the wealth of talent London designers are showcasing this season. Eudon Choi is at the forefront of this directional season in England’s capital, and arguably the capital of European fashion. 

Photo Credit:

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

J JS Lee // Fall 2015 //

London Fashion Week’s plethora of designer talent all upped their game this season. After seeing images, and attending shows during the trade show which will see £100 million of orders, I can honestly say every designer has improved themselves. J JS Lee was one of them. Showing at 9:00 am on Friday morning to a bunch of Londoners and bleary eyed jet setters, her collection was sublime and potentially her best to date. Why? It was true to her minimal ethos but given a funky zest via prints, fur and a plump red lip. 

Jackie’s colours of choice for Fall 2015 - many shades of grey (not 50, like the raunchy film), white, black navy, dusty pink, a deep mustard and dark pinks. There was a sensuous vibe to the clothing this season. Deeper necklines, higher waistlines, fir coats with who know what underneath. It was all fabulous. I loved Look 6. A wool sweater worn with high waisted elasticated trousers. Look 15 was another standout. A grey sculpted coat, with fur lined lapels. The model that stormed the runway after that was bundled up in a luxurious grey wool high neck sweater with a simple white panel. Grey trousers - suitable workwear or day-to-night piece - also livened the look up. This mixture of greys, prevalent throughout the start of the collection added depth to the looks. One grey may be conceived as boring but two or more ignited the look.
Tomboyish overtones were present in the collection. Models wore bobs that contrasted with their red stained lips. Tomboyishness was done with slightly oversized coats, but with a feminine touch. Printed pinks were worn over wide leg black trousers. Dresses were disguised in long tuxedo like overcoats. The hair and make-up was an aspect of the collection which really hit home with me. They eye catching crimson lip and the perfectly manicured bob propelled the androgynous theme. 

After seeing such amazing clothes from London designers this season, one can only hope that this winning streak continues. With almost five years experience, Jackie is garnering much deserved attention opening London Fashion Week for the past couple of seasons. I always am intrigued to see what the CSM grad has to present and this season I was enamoured to say the least. 

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Monday, February 23, 2015

Bora Aksu // Fall 2015 //

The songbird in Oscar Wilde’s story ‘The Nightingale and the Rose’ served as the inspiration for Bora Aksu’s Fall 2015 collection. The Turkish designer displayed his collection in the BFC Courtyard Space of Somerset House to an anticipating audience. As the show began, the space faded to black. An excerpt from the story of which the show was inspired by played. A model walked out and the lights emerged one by one, illuminating the model in every stride. That was the beginning of a gorgeous collection from Bora Aksu.

The sacrifice a lone nightingale makes in pursuits of another’s love and 
the rose for which he gives his life was a starting point in the emotional sojourn explored in the collection. As the show notes said, the hues brought us on this journey. Royal blues represented the lovelorn story, gold optimism, and also dusty pinks a sanguine narrative. Jet blacks closed out the show injecting pessimism into the show. 
Intricate thread work embroideries, eyeleted outfits and the colours used were highlights in the 30-piece collection. Look 28 was a black dress with sheer details and pink floral embroideries. The models wore side swept faux loose ponytails. The final look, also black, was a high neck eyeleted mini dress with a dusty rose skirt underneath and donned by a blonde model wearing a menacing grin. 

At the end of the show, in signature Aksu style, the models congregated at the end of the runway. They paused and then pounded the catwalk in a confident procession. The kinetic clothes looked splendid together, the juxtaposition of tonal hues and the confidence exuded by the models was particularly impactful. This parade of models is always something I love seeing in a Bora Aksu collection. Seeing the clothes together is like being in a dream state. This Fall collection was delicate yet packed a punch. 

Thursday, February 19, 2015

London Fashion Week // Fall 2015 //

With New York Fashion Week concluding today the international fashion pack will descend upon London for London Fashion Week. I too will be making the trip, an hour across the pond, or a puddle in my case. I rejoice every February and September for the five day long affair. Creativity bulges from every season during the five different scheduled events during the period. There’s the official BFC schedule, and the digital schedule, the Fashion Scout programme, the ON/OFF diary and of course off-off schedule events. 

The official BFC LFW schedule is always exciting. Seeds are planted each season for fruitful young designers who present their unique wares at the event, which will see £100 million orders placed. New designers this season you ask. Molly Goddard for one. She graduated Central Saint Martins BA course in 2012, and prematurely departed the MA course last year before present an off-off schedule presentation amidst the hectic Spring 2015 season. Molly’s funky tulle dresses are to die for. I’m excited to see what she has to present. Samantha McCoach’s brand Le Kilt is also presenting for the first time. Expect hip kilts from the label. Claire Barrow another designer who showcased the off-off schedule last season in a building down a dark alleyway in Marleybone. The University of Westminster grad is most likely to present a dystopian dream. I’m most excited to see Phoebe English present on Sunday evening at the BFC Presentation Space. Again I’m excited to see a fantastical and darkly whimsical outfits from the designer. The above three designers are all receiving NEWGEN sponsorship along with a couple of other labels. 

We have to mourn the loss of a couple of designers from the official schedule this season. Many designers have taken a furlough from the fixtures this season. Richard Nicoll has decided to abstain to consolidate his business strategy, and also because of commercial pressures. This also defines the prominent question. Is fashion becoming too commercialised not allowing designers to create and follow their dreams due to increased pressures? Marios Schwab also opted out, instead choosing to present his collection presentation style (and it was great as usual). Maria Grachvogel who was absent from the diary for a year but was featured on the provisional schedule back in December. Once the final schedule was revealed she wasn’t to be seen. Hopefully these designers will return to the main schedule in September.

This season I have a good feeling about. In a day and age of technological advancements, Hunter Original, Topshop Unique, and Burberry Prorsum will all have immersive live presentations in stores and online, with media coverage excessive. Other live streams are offered by other platforms such as the official London Fashion Week website. Be sure to check back to see my coverage of LFW. 

Proenza Schouler // Fall 2015 //

I think that was the sexiest collection from the Proenza Schouler boys. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the geniuses behind Proenza Schouler presented their Fall 2015 collection during New York Fashion Week at the vacant Whitney Museum. The duo once again sought inspiration from the art world - it was only fitting they held the show at a museum. Abstract expressionism and minimalist sculpturing were sources of inspiration. Helen Frankenthaler and Robert Morris, respectively, have interesting pieces of work which were translated into the Proenza Schouler collection.

Eyeleted tights were worn throughout the collection. They added this sex appeal as aforementioned. Midriff bearing numbers, exposed shoulders, plunging necklines, splits, sheer details. It was all very evocative in an abstract way. The Proenza Schouler way. Look 13 was a crimson red off the shoulder long sleeve dress. It featured multiple slashes and revealed skin and also the high waisted tights. It was all very provocative. Look 15 was a similar look also revealing the tights and a sliver of skin. This time the cracked grey printed dress featured a high high and was body hugging before gently flaring into a delicately cut skirt. 
The bandaged dresses weren’t your average Hervé Leger number, but instead it covered up a printed dress with red details. Despite being covered with a second layer the outfit was oozing sex appeal, it bursted from the seams. Even the coats had you wondering, what was underneath? The rich red hues in the coats were glamourous. I can imagine Anna Wintour will be Proenza-clad come September. 

The finale looks. Sequinned with more than 300,000 pieces, seamstresses worked tirelessly to produce flawless pieces resembling work of sculptor Robert Morris. The whole draped vibe that I was getting off them was similar to the work he did with materials. The colour palette also was similar to those that artist Frankenthaler used. The blood red, crimson, vermillion, rust and auburn colours were all welcomed and championed the 44-piece collection. Greys, blacks, whites were also featured in the presentation. The red carpet dazzlers will be shimmering with the flashing of light bulbs at Oscar parties at the weekend no doubt. 

I was more than impressed with this collection on the penultimate day of New York Fashon Week. Outfits with fur weren’t done ostentatiously as they were in other designers’ collections during the week. Instead the seldom use of fur enchanting shoulder pad details and V-necklines. The tights discharged sexiness from every eyelet. The swept back hairstyles stayed out of models visages as they pounded the runway with an empowered stride, like an intergalactic glamazonian. Jack and Lazaro are aspirational. Their prestigious fixture on the NYFW schedule once again provided with a ravishing autumnal collection. 

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Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Oscar de la Renta // Fall 2015 //

Peter Copping made his defection to New York in October following his final bow from Nina Ricci (where Guillaume Henry will take the helm in March during Paris Fashion Week). In New York he was set to work with Oscar de la Renta who had hired him to take the tenure at his eponymous label. Unfortunately things didn’t go to plan. Mr. de la Renta passed away before they had the chance to work together. Copping said in his show notes that not getting the chance to work with Oscar is something he deeply regrets. 

For the debut collection at the esteemed brand during New York Fashion Week, Copping wanted ‘to honour Oscar’s legacy and start a new chapter for the house’. He also wanted to thank Alex and Eliza Bolen, and the teams in the studio for their support and help of settling him in. The first show was welcomed in open arms by New York’s elite. Editors, Barbara Walters, Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss all were perched on the front to watch the beginning of a new era. 

Loyal ODLR fans will be head over heels for this collection. It remained true to its late predecessor, but also added a Parisian flare thanks to the new designer. Geometric printed pieces were given an effective enrichment thanks to fur, colours and florals. Ladies who lunch. The outfits were definitely perfect for ladies who were about to dine at the Plaza for a gossip filled luncheon. Anna Wintour would look great in these looks. Rich colours such as deep cobalt blue, fuchsia, chartreuse, deep merlot and liquid gold will suit women of all ages.

The final gowns had a Copping infused Oscar de la Renta gleam. Models wore gorgeous waist enhancing gowns in black and gold, pink or chartreuse. With the Academy Awards on Sunday, stylists are pulling looks left, right and centre from this collection. I personally felt their was a mournful air in the house and visibly in the collection. The hues were noticeably darker than usual, even for Fall. And despite the loss of a fantastic designer we have been ensured a with a clearly well capable designer. As Oscar de la Renta once said “the great thing about fashion is that it always moves forward,”. 

Marc by Marc Jacobs // Fall 2015 //

The Marc by Marc Jacobs girl is revolting again. Now at their third season at the helm of the Marc Jacobs diffusion line, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have explored a revolting bunny-hop ninja girl, and also rave culture in the U.K. in the 90’s. Once again the revolutionism is back. This season the models were members of the MBMJ army. The models marched on the runway wearing outfits emblazoned with ‘unite’, ’solidarity’ and ‘suffragette’.

The warrior woman walked on a faux-grass perfectly mown lawn. The MBMJ aesthetic is shifting. Fall 2014 was the 18th century ninja girl, spring 2015 was a 90’s disco free spirit, and now Fall 2015 an entirely new entity. A militaristically driven young girl who is a suffragette, standing in solidarity with her peers. The final walk featured all the models lining up one behind the other in two rows before they paraded the runway. 
Artist William Morris’ prints were featured on the outfits. Look 8 resembled camouflage with it’s subdued hues but in fact it was florally printed. Funky tartans made their way down the runway, paying homage to the previous season in a reformed way. They were sweaters with mismatched coloured sleeves and featured the words ‘choice’ and ‘solidarity’ on them. High waisted trousers worn with a shimmering charcoal day coat and studded boots showed off the rocker chic vibe. 

This collection was unique and interesting, and totally wearable. When you see the looks together you may question this but if you inspect closely you can envision their simplicity and longevity as wearable wardrobe staples. One of my favourite looks was Look 30. A black halter party dress with a pronounced mini skirt. The dress featured a lace up bodice, satin details, a velvet body and a tulle-esque skirt peering out of the skirt. A beret á la the Guardian Angels, a silk scarf, too cool for school sunglasses, point toe studded flats and see through socks completed the look.

I loved this empowered and strong MBMJ girl. She know what she wants and she’s willing to fight for it. She’s a suffragette. She stands in unity and solidarity among the people in the same situation as her. This is the kind of stuff that young girls should have instilled in them from a young age. VIVE LA REVOLUTION!

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Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Rodarte // Fall 2015 //

Rodarte sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy presented my favourite collection at New York Fashion Week so far. The Californian duo are always on my watch list as I look forward to seeing what creations they produce each season. For Fall 2015 there was a mixture of 70’s rock chick, with a dash of equestrianism and disco funk. My favourite model, Anna Ewers, stormed the runway in the opening look.

Yet again my top trend of the season was present. Anna’s black cropped jacket was decorated with an electric blue fur collar. A diagonal leather mini skirt was also worn in the look. High waisted skinny leg leather trousers followed in suit. A similar jacket, this time with a fox-coloured fur collar and a black sheer lace blouse was worn. The equestrian vibes continued with a chequered fur collared coat that wouldn’t look out of place in a stables. A fashionable stables of course. Laced up, heeled riding boots completed the looks. 

The gothic looks continued and then there was a burst of colour. A Swarovski embellished spaghetti strapped cami was tucked into a flower petal mini skirt. Look 19 began a slew of white looks. A white blouse with billowing sleeves was paired with black high waisted hot pants and lace leggings. Look 21 was a similar dress worn with thigh high leather boots. It was a goths take on being girly. I loved it. 
The girl then became a funky disco warrior come Look 28. The bright yet autumnal sparkling dress were originally just above the knee, a seductive yet respectable hemline. As it progressed they became more symmetric, exposing more skin. The trio of finale gowns are everything we expect and more from the Rodarte duo. A plumage enhanced shoulder piece on a plunging neckline gown with a tiered shimmering skirt was worn by Hollie May Saker. Grace Mahary wore the penultimate look, a floral embroidered and printed gown enriched  with orange and black fur strips and a blue shimmering skirt. The finale look was a long sleeve open neckline, with a deep plunge, and sheer details. Electric blue and black ombre fur lined the look at different parts and three different parts compartmentalised the dress into three.

I can always count on Laura and Kate to bring undivided glamour, with a touch of unique Rodarte quirkiness and a lot of creativity. Every season for the past number of seasons they are bringing something new to the plate while staying true to themselves and the Rodarte woman. What a splendid collection.

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Monday, February 16, 2015

Prabal Gurung // Fall 2015 //

Chic evening wear is becoming the trend of New York Fashion Week. First Jason Wu, then Altuzarra, and now Prabal Gurung. The Nepalese designer looked to upstate New York to the Adirondack Mountains. Women of age who have garnered life experience also inspired Prabal for Fall 2015. Frankie Rayder (40), Kirsty Hume (38), Tasha Tilberg (35) and a few other models in their thirties strutted their stuff youthfully down the runway at the ICB Building. 

The opening look was a cream centre split folded slip dress worn underneath a grey parka with a fur collar. My favourite trend of the season so far - fur was present here. Look 4 looked liked a lady who lunches dream. The fur coat featured different types of fur. A gorgeous sweater inside featured a wide high neck. A prim skirt was also worn. The following look was a white and black fur gilet.
The woman of upstate New York was definitely present in this collection. The demure clothing was given a sexy flare by Gurung. The clothes were proper but spiced up with a deep V-neck, sheer details or lace. As the collection progressed we saw the colour auburn which Gurung has been using frequently in his previous collections. Look 21 was a plunging neckline sleeveless dress with an architectural fold revealing a sliver of leg. Stylists take note. 

Hilary Rhoda made a rare appearance on the runway donning a crimson parka, over a two toned red sweater with a roomy neckline and a sheer skirt. This roominess was an undercurrent that flowed through the show. The clothes weren’t exactly waist cinching and strangely I liked that. It gave them that stylishly demure grown woman appeal. Frankie Rayder wore a jacket that consumers will be racing to get. Her black number featured was lined with white fur. A sensual dress underneath was black and white. The asymmetrically patterned dress featured lace details. Black T-bar heels completed the look.

Prabal Gurung excites me. Every season I look forward to seeing what he has to offer. For Fall 2015, a beautiful experience grown woman was the evolution of the Prabal woman. For Spring I can see it either revisiting this ethos or returning to a flirty twenty something year old. But I’m happy to let this Fall season sink in for the next seven months. This was a wonderful collection. 

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Sunday, February 15, 2015

Victoria Beckham // Fall 2015 //

Now entering her 14th season, designer Victoria Beckham is enjoying her seventh year in the business. At her show held at the Cunard Building during New York Fashion Week, VB’s brood David, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper were sandwiched between Suzy Menkes and Anna Wintour. Fashion’s high flyers mingled with the Beckham brood. Other than the well dressed front row, the collection captivated. Dresses and drapery were the collections starting points.

The daywear we were treated with was given abstract fix-up thanks to the large buttons and the drapery. When I hear drapery I think of curtains. When I think of drapery in the same sentence as Victoria Beckham, my interest is piqued. The opening look was a sensual black dress with a deep yet not overtly sexy V-neck with a side drape and two buttons. The collection progressed and featured sweaters, and tops that were bunched up and draped gracefully. Double breasted fur coats with large shoulders were worn by models at the start. Then a tangerine day coat made its way down the runway accompanied by tan boots. An army green short coat worn as a dress, a unique empire fit and flare coat, was a sublime number which I can easy picture Beckham in. 
Some outfits were given complexity. Look 25 was a mixture of materials - wool, silk an animal skin of sorts. The high neck dress was similar to a toned down version in Look 27, which featured an all black cap sleeved bodice. I can’t say I liked these two looks. I think they are too befuddling in a collection which such simplistic and fluid yet quirky aspects. The final look was also a delve into the avant-garde for the brand. A white cap sleeved bunched up top paired with a silver flurry of material skirt. 

With a successful commercial aspect of her namesake brand, Victoria Beckham has yet again added something refreshing and new, yet maintaining that classic VB sexy and luxurious vibe. This collection will be a hit among customers on e-commerce and in her new flagship store on Dover Street in London. Utilitarianism is key at Victoria Beckham. This season it was done with a mildly abstract flare. 

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Altuzarra // Fall 2015 //

Joseph Altuzarra makes a damn fine collection for me to feast my eyes upon each season at New York Fashion Week. The designer’s woman is a provocateur but a power dresser. For Fall 2015 the designer was inspired by Truman Capote’s “swans” (a.k.a. his female friends. Gloria Vanderbilt, Babe Paley and Slim Keith were friends of the esteemed author) and 18th century dandies.

When you look at the coats in this collection the dandy inside the Altuzarra woman showed through. Look 10 was a navy coat worn over a shirt with a frilly neckline and a keyhole cut-out and splendid Prince of Wales chequered wide leg trousers. Worn over the shoulder was a blue shoulder bag made possible by Kering, Altuzarra’s parent company. The Prince of Wales print continued in look 11 in the form of a cropped jacket. A huge fox fur lapel and collar added a luxuriousness to the look. The dress worn underneath featured frilled pockets which exuded the 18th CE look. 
Anna Ewers stomped down the runway in camel coloured laced boots worn with frilly socks. The outfit. A gorgeous pale pink fur jacket worn over a dress with a signature Altuzarra thigh high split. Anna is getting a lot of fur outfits this season. The furs in this collection were lavish. Look 17 was a similar number, a longer duck egg fur coat. 

The suits were gorgeous. An oxblood (Look 20) one stood out. A jacket disguised as a blazer was worn, along with a sheer printed top and high waisted trousers. Look 14 was a camel coloured outfit consisting of a long blazer and high waisted trousers, and a white shirt with a keyhole detail and a frilly neckline. 

The silk devoré looks we were graced with at the end were a feast for the eyes. The dresses featured thigh high splits and were darkly palatial. The dresses were worn with contrasting leather sleeveless jackets with fur shoulder pads, black blazers, and fur coats. The finale look, a variation of the two predecessors, was a navy sheer dress with a sexy thigh high split and a frilly shirt bodice (present throughout the collection).

Accessories were simple point to heels or black leather studded boots. The sexy heels gave a 1970’s meets 1870’s hustler vibe. The new bags are sure to sell well with the Altuzarra customer. The models pounded the catwalk oozing sex appeal, ever-present in all Altuzarra collections. This darker, mischievous and enigmatic Altuzarra woman is blending with the existing empowered and sexy ethos. 

Photo Credit: // Collage Credit:

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Alexander Wang // Fall 2015 //

The celebrities milled into Alexander Wang’s showspace for Fall 2015. Kim Kardashian and her brood Kanye West and North West arrived later to watch half-sister Kendall Jenner strut her stuff down the runway. Nicki Minaj and Zoe Kravitz were also present at the show. The models were also impressive - Anna Ewers, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Kendall, Issa Lish, Binx Walton, Mica Arganaraz and Fei Fei Sun all walked in the staple show.

Heavy metal served as Wang’s inspiration for Fall. I was interested to see how this would be worked into the collection. Would he take a literal approach or would he look to the genre of music. I had a feeling it would be the latter since Wang embraces music so well. I would like to continue this review with the following information on the table. The platform boots - I did not like. But I appreciated them as they added to the aesthetic. 

The opening look consisted of black high waisted, sharply tailored, capri trousers with a pocket watch chain, a sleek black leather high neck crop top with studded details and a blazer with velvet lapels. The huge studded boots rounded out the look. Despite the shoes I found myself enamoured with the sporty and grungy clothing. Mica’s look was a sleeveless mini dress adorned with velvet and a studded high neck. 

The velvet, leather and studded looks which dominated the collection exuded the grungy sexiness I was excited to see. Sexy silk pajamas were worn underneath a gorgeous robe like day coat. The embellished studs added an extra blingy flair to Wang’s looks. The dressing gown of Look 14 gave me a boxing vibes. Look 39 an almost completely sheer halter dress left little to the imagination. Look 40 followed in suit.

The finale look, once again Anna Ewers (closed Jason Wu), was a gold bomber jacket paired with a sheer fine mesh chain mail skirt. This collection is a highlight of the season and we’re three days in. The 70’s heavy metal overtones throughout the collection proved an amazing effort from the New York based whiz. Alexander Wang is a skilful designer. Each season he manages to impress me and his expanding fan base. 

Photo Credit: / Collage Credit: 

Jason Wu // Fall 2015 //

Jason Wu brought glamour to New York Fashion Week yet again. The now-established designer continues to shift from a frothy tulle wearing woman to a power dressing glamour queen. Catherine Deneuve was emulated in the fabulous clothing showcasing Wu’s prowess as a designer.

The luxuriousness of this collection was an elixir. I love creativity and quirky designs, but luxe goods will take my heart any day. The crocodile skins, the furs… I’m getting palpitations just remembering the show, held at Spring Studios. The opening look was a khaki green militaristic number consisting of a gorgeous jacket and the most stylish capri trousers I’ve ever seen. Underneath that was a fur gilet boasting a huge neckline. Look 24 displayed a larger sleeveless fur sleeveless jacket belted at the waist. Underneath was a camel coloured centre split skirt. 
Top model Hanne Gaby Odiele stormed the runway in a stunning crimson plunging neckline gown with a thigh high split. Black leather boots and a leather clutch bag completed the look. Anna Ewers closed the show in a luxurious navy fur coat decked out in a teal pelt.  Last season’s breakout, Maartje Verhoef also glided down the runway oozing resplendence in her white halter neck split gown with a keyhole cut-out and a skinny waist cinching black leather buckle belt.

This collection will have buyers in a frenzy. With stockists such as Browns, Mytheresa, Net-a-Porter and Nordstrom - this collection will be the centrefold this fall. The glamour encapsulated by Wu in this collection is almost indescribable… Catherine Deneuve’s allure was captured in this collection. Women will be dying to get their hands on these looks. Deneuve once said “A woman has to be intelligent, have charm, a sense of humour, and be kind. It’s the same qualities I require from a man,”. Jason Wu and the Wu girl conveyed that at the presentation.