Monday, January 19, 2015

Pre-Fall 2015 // My Favourite Collections //

Pre-Fall 2015 has been upon us for some time now and I thought I would share with you some of my favourite collections of the season. 

Roksanda
Mother of Pearl 
OSMAN
Christopher Kane

Oh Roksanda you’ve done it again. Serbian-born London-based designer Roksanda Illincic continues to mesmerise me with her gorgeous designs. For pre-fall Roksanda explored the colours lilac, coral, dusty rose and richer hues in great detail. I was in love with the coral and lilac looks. 
The shapes, the colour blocking, the lengths. Everything about this collection was amazing. The colour blocked looks were in a diagonal shape which was a feast for the eyes. The beautiful black, coral and lilac gown (Look 23) is a stunner. I can see it at an award season event. Marion Cotillard’s stylist needs to snap this collection up! Something I was excited to see was lantern sleeves which Roksanda used in her Spring 2012 collection. They were softer than before and done exquisitely in a layered chiffon. What a splendid collection. I can’t wait to see what she has to offer for Fall 2015. 
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Amy Powney creative director of Mother of Pearl was inspired by the 2012 Wes Anderson film ‘Moonrise Kngdom’ for her Pre-Fall 2015 collection at the label. I love seeing Anderson’s quirky Instagrammic films being made into wonderful collections from wonderful designers. Deep berry hues were used in the collection and of course were printed thanks to an artist collaboration.
In the film the main character is a boy scout and that was definitely a recognisable overtone in the collection. See tucked in tops into trousers, or just below the knee high socks. Warm coats to be worn by the crackling campfire were also a prime standout in the collection. Best selling sneakers were high tops with a plaid print this season. 
Anything Powney creates I am fascinated by and this collection is no exception. 
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Osman Yousefzada is by far one of my favourite designers. His eponymous label OSMAN has beautiful and lust-worthy clothing that is chic and funky. The boho-luxe Navajo vibe that was a prevalent theme in his Spring 2015 collection was also present in this collection. The theme was definitely more in depth this season (see Navajo headdress on models). 
Typically associated with Navajo and the boho-luxe trend are fringing, printing and rich colours. All of these factors were present in the OSMAN collection. Look 22 was an amazing white jumpsuit with a plunging neckline tied in three places with spaghetti straps. Anne Hathaway - this has your name on it. 
This theme is being explored more and more in depth each season so that has me begging the question - will it be the prevailing notion of the Fall collection.
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Christopher Kane continues to link past and present in his collection. Pre-Fall 2015 was no exception. Tim Blanks of Style.com noticed nods to the Fall 2014, Spring 2012 and Fall 2010 collections in this presentation. I did too recognise these motifs in the collection and was overjoyed to see them. Combining my favourite collections of his with this current one is fabulous. 
A cropped biker jacket followed by a normal sized leather biker gave me chills. Pink was used in the collection. This stereotypically girly colour was toughened by black leather or the colour in general. The florals from his Fall 2010 collection followed the slew of pinks. The yellow finale gown with an intricately detailed bodice also from a previous collection wowed me. Laura Carmichael this one’s for you.
Yet another flawless collection from Mr. Kane.
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Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Maison Margiela Artisanal // Spring 2015 Couture //

Heeeeeeeeee's back. John Galliano made a triumphant return to fashion on the final day of London Collections: Men on Monday evening. Last year when Galliano was appointed the creative director position at Margiela, I exclaimed with joy 'Yes'. Galliano and Margiela are eccentricities of people/labels and together I can see Galliano transforming Margiela for the better. The magnificent designer presented his first Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal collection during the 4 day LCM affair. The artisanal team assembled the Galliano vision for Spring. The show was witnessed by a fashionable audience. Fashion industry big shots Kate Moss, Edward Enniful, Manolo Blahnik and Christopher Bailey. The collection vaguely reminded me of a collection from the early 00's.

First I'd like to address one of the final looks in the 24-piece collection. The beautiful red gown with a bow at the back is a wonderful red carpet  moment waiting to happen. I can picture French goddess Marion Cotillard wowing in the number. Look 20 was worn by Binx Walton and was a black tuxedo sans shirt. This look translated Galliano's skillfulness of blending menswear with womenswear, and having it work.

I was quite fascinated by Look 5 which was a red wool coat with an Easter Island face on it. This transformation of an otherwise to a simplistic coat to a piece of artisanal greatness. The see through latex pockets enhanced the look in my opinion and furthered my love for it. Latex pockets were featured in different looks throughout the show. Look 6 and 7 also featured a face of sorts. Materials were fashioned together to give the appearance of eyes. This creative concept paid off and provided a quirky look. 

This is the beginning of great things, I'm sure, from Galliano at Margiela. The label isn't usually met with open arms from the general public and I can see why. People can be turned off by the flamboyant looks and the fact the label doesn't conform with other houses. I personally love the creativity and passion injected into an esteemed label by an esteemed designer.  Here's to a new era.

Monday, January 12, 2015

W Magazine // February 2015 // The Movie Issue

I’m writing this post excitedly on Monday the 5th of January. I am beyond overjoyed. W Magazine, every year, release their February issue dedicated to the best performers of the year in acting. I love this issue as it combines two of my favourite things, film and fashion.

The cover shoot this year was done by Tim Walker. I am in awe with how amazing these covers are. Benedict Cumberbatch & Keira Knightley, Reese Witherspoon, Amy Adams, Julianne Moore, Bradley Cooper, Shailene Woodley, and Emma Stone all have separate covers in the issue. Emma’s is my personal favourite, followed by Benedict and Keira’s.

Tim Walker is a fantastic photographer. I have championed him for years and am fascinated by his peculiar style. These set of portraits of Hollywood’s finest thespians is no different. The full editorial features a countless amount of other actors who have done exceedingly well in their field this year. After a quick scan I saw David Oyelowo (Selma), Jessica Chastain (A Most Violent Year), Scarlett Johansson (Under the Skin) and Ethan Hawke (Boyhood), among many more. 

Below is the bite-sized interviews with each actor/actress talking about his/her respective film. 

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

1205 // Spring 2015 //

Paula Gerbase's label 1205 is at the forefront of understated simplicity in London. Every season the Brazilian-born London-based designer perfects her Saville Row trained precision tailoring. Fans of elegant and easily wearable clothing will be a huge fan of this collection and the label. 

Navy, grey, khaki green, black and white were the only colours on Gerbase's palette for her Spring 2015 show. Look 27 was a white halter neck loose top tucked into navy knife pleated trousers. The following look, the finale look, was the a navy knife pleated dress which looked a tad shapeless. Upon closer inspection, a form fitting dress was underneath. The knife pleated part of the dress became more intriguing after this discovery.
Gerbase has many high profile stockists. Browns, Harvey Nichols and Dover Street Market all stock her clothes in their stores. She has over 21 stockists in Japan, excluding the countless amount elsewhere. Online powerhouse Net-a-Porter also sell 1205. The label clearly appeals to the masses and it is clear to see why. The refined elegance with a touch of edginess in the clothing are perfect for the international and national markets. There is always something for everyone in each 1205 collection. 

A lot of designers at London Fashion Week are eclectic. Gerbase doesn't fit into that category. She designs beautiful monochromatic easy pieces with an occasional quirky twist that will be coveted by women who value classy workwear items that can be transformed from day pieces to evening wear. The clothes were versatile and the show was enjoyable.
Photo Credit: zimbio.com


Monday, January 5, 2015

Mother of Pearl // Spring 2015 //

Mother of Pearl is luxury sports-luxe brand founded by Maia Norman. In 2010 a new creative director, Amy Powney, was appointed. Powney has reinvented the brand but in an intriguing way. Each season, an artist collaborates with the label and together with Powney they create prints to incorporate in the collection. This idea alone had me sold. 

For Spring 2015, painter a Chris Moon was the chosen collaborator of the brand. Amy deconstructed his paintings, examining every inch of the paintings. Discarded unfinished paintings were also used. This helped form the basis of the print that was used in the collection. 60's singer Sandie Shaw was the starting point for Powney's collection. After this Powney began to juxtapose luxury and the athletic aesthetic. Sportswear was paired with jewels and heels. I have to say it worked perfectly.
One of the final looks was a pretty white dress with a black embroidery and a sky blue print and red trimming. Slip-on sneakers and fancy earrings were added to the look. The dress was stunning and I can envision it on the red carpet on Nicole Kidman. That would be amazing. The shoes are covetable and will no doubt be snapped up quickly by die-hard Mother of Pearl fans. The trainers the label make are the bestselling product.


The label is predictable in the sense that we can expect some lavish sportswear but the unpredictable side is that we don't know which artist Powney will work with. We don't know what quirky print will be incorporated into the collection. This is what piques my interest. 
 Photo Credit: motherofpearl.co.uk

Saturday, January 3, 2015

LFW Spring 2015 Round-Up // Amanda Wakely, Shrimps, Whistles, Topshop, Marques'Almeida //

Amanda Wakeley is a luxurious womenswear designer who is embracing the digital age. Many of the guests at her London Fashion Week opening day show, held at her flagship store on Albermarle St, were bloggers. The show itself was very simple but it was something that will appeal to the high end market and her clientele. Each look was white and could easily be pictured on someone gliding off a yacht in Monaco. The looks were sharply tailored. There was a sports-luxe vibe about the collection. Lavish leather handbags accompanied the all-white looks. 
Photo Credit: theimprint.theimpression.com
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Hannah Weiland’s brand Shrimps showed on schedule for the first during Spring 2015 London Fashion Week. When I saw the label on the schedule I did some research. I was to expect ‘luxurious fur outerwear and accessories’. Faux fur that is. This season Weiland added two new materials to her repertoire - faux stingray and faux Shetland pony skin. Her inspiration came from the Flinstones. She is a huge fan of Pebbles Flintstone. There was two coats, one short, the other long, in a faux leopard skin and they were accented with blue and pink, respectively, faux fur collars. Awesome. Even the shoes had a Shrimps make-over. Heels were decked out in fur, straps in fur. Brand Poplin collaborated with Shrimps to bring us silk pyjamas with Weiland’s doodles on them. I am looking forward to seeing what Weiland will be showing for Fall.
Photo Credit: fashion.telegraph.co.uk
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High-end-high-street brand Whistles has been showing on schedule at London Fashion Week for the past number of seasons now. You can always expect something covetable from Whistles and this season was no difference. The show was held in a tunnel at King’s Cross Station of all places. Models wore black and white, but nude, pale blue and silver also made an appearance. The looks were day-to-evening pieces and there was a sporty-vibe to the collection. The opening leather laser cut coat was really cool. Street style stars take note. The outfits will be a hit commercially. They really perfected the on-the-go-vibe. 
Photo Credit: zimbio.com
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Cara Delevingne stormed down the Topshop Unique runway at the newly opened space for the week at a warehouse on Gray’s Inn Road. She wore a cheeky grin with a red pout and a sporty dress. The faded glamour of the British seaside was the inspiration for the show. This collection was the most youthful Unique collection of late. As the evening wear came down the runway, we were met with playful dresses with sequin embellishments. Cara D once again closed the show with a powerful stomp and a gorgeous nude sheer dress with silver embellishments. I find the runway collection to be hit-and-miss but this collection was a hit. 
Photo Credit: stylebistro.com
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Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida are a fan favourite during London Fashion Week with their recurring Tuesday show. Denim is always done is some way, shape or form in the duos collection. This season there was a grunginess to the clothes. As the collection progressed more colour was introduced into the collection. Sheer materials were used, and I thought this gave off a careless attitude. The make-up looked like an experimental Marques’Almeida girl having fun with colourful eyeshadows. The hair was blown out and frizzy. Everything about the collection exuded youth. The clothes were funky, wearable and simply cool. 
Photo Credit: stylebistro.com

Simone Rocha // Spring 2015 //

The day after Irish designer Simone Rocha presented at London Fashion Week, I saw four different national newspapers feature a London Fashion Week section and Simone’s designs was the accompanying image. Simone’s show was the hot ticket of fashion week.

For her show she was inspired by German ballet director and choreographer Pina Bausch’s works. Simone’s work is very tonal but this season there was bright florals (resembling Bausch’s ballet ‘Nelken’). There was one floral look which was so pretty and romantic (romanticism with a dark edge is synonymous with Simone’s designs). Look 17 was a sheer coat with dainty red petal embroideries. A veil was worn by the model which also had an assortment of red floral embroideries. 
Simone has been making accessories for quite a while now and I love the funky attitude they give to the looks. Especially those that are very soft, they give them a hard edge. There was flat slip-on sandals (not the ones I don’t like) which were lined with fur. They were different to the C eline fur-kenstocks and much nicer in my opinion. There was a variety of other shoes to choose from. Flats, Mary-Janes will a small heel and lace-ups with platforms or without. This season there was a gorgeous bag. It was a black leather hexagonal tote with fur accents. Fur was a key part of the collection. Small amounts were used which helped maintain the light and airiness of spring. Even the black looks seemed summery. It was probably the usage of sheer materials and accessories. 

Every season I say the same thing about Simone’s collections. Best collection to date. The phrase is tired but I cannot deny the every collection is better than the last. She is a whiz when it comes to designing and it is more than enjoyable to watch her label grow and develop each season. 

Photo Credit: stylebistro,com & americanvogue.com

Friday, January 2, 2015

Teatum Jones // Spring 2015 //

Teatum Jones have been on the London Fashion Week schedule for many seasons now. Ignorantly, I haven’t paid too much attention to the label. That all changed with Spring 2015. Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are the designers of the London based brand. The label is renowned for it’s texturising and modernist approach to elegance.

For Spring 2015, the duo sought inspiration from American soul and jazz singer, Nina Simone. As The LFW Daily newspaper reported, Nina’s Methodist background is a perfect explanation for the biblical undertones in the collection. There was a gospel choir singing and a Swarovski-encrustments which resembled a maniple.
The elegant designs oozed resplendence and the modernist approach to the same way of design captured what luxury fashion is today. The Swarovski-encrusting featured throughout the collection gave the show that extra oomph and the opulence was similar to that of ecclesiastical wares.
This was a great collection from Teatum Jones and I look forward to seeing what the duo have to offer for Fall 2015.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Peter Pilotto // Spring 2015 //

Coming off of the Fall 2014 collection, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have a lot to live up to, in my opinion. That collection was amazing. For Spring 2015 they came extremely close to being just as good as the previous collection which is a feat. 

There was a lot of perspex in this collection. This oozed sex appeal. The coats which featured perspex resembled stained glass windows.   Some dresses did too, and were practically matching but I didn’t see the same thing. This excited me. Other coats featured, were technicolour dreams. 
Most looks were symmetric, and employed the butterfly effect, but other looks didn’t conform and were asymmetric. Look 12 featured a burst of teal on the black dress with coloured button embroidery. I’m not sure if I was the biggest fan of this.

The mini dresses which featured a teardrop were divine. These exquisite numbers were perfection. Naomie Harris has worn one of the looks at an event, and on her lean frame she exuded confidence and sexiness in the outfit. This is guaranteed with most Peter Pilotto outfits.

Yet another fabulous collection from the boys. 
Photo Credit: americanvogue.com

Phoebe English // Spring 2015 //

Phoebe English is a new designer for me. I saw her name on the Spring 2015 digital schedule at London Fashion Week and was intrigued. I wanted to know more. After she presented I searched for images and it was a great moment. Phoebe specially designed a window display for Dover Street Market’s 10th Birthday celebration. This was a bold move for DSM to choose a young and up-and-coming designer for their display, but I’m sure it paid off.

English is very creative and her collection was splendid. There was contradictions in the collection. Materials, light and hard, different textures, and ideas were juxtaposed. 

The collection opened with a muslin dress, apron-esque, with messy paint strokes. Illustrator Helen Bullock was responsible for the hand painted prints. Another fascinating aspect of the collection was the giupure d’art (an ancient lace making technique that was popular in the 16th century). This technique is very interesting and displays English’s attention to detail.

This collection is a defining moment in Phoebe English’s career as her name will be introduced to the masses - especially with her being on the official schedule for Fall 2015.