Wednesday, December 31, 2014

OSMAN // Spring 2015 //

Maharajas, English hippies, kawaii Korean street-style stunners, and flirty beach-goers served as Osman Yousefzada’s inspiration for his Spring 2015 OSMAN collection. What a magnificent collection we were greeted with on the final day of London Fashion Week.

Delicate pearl embroideries were a gorgeous addition to the faux-boho-luxe outfits. The collection was an elegant posh girls take on the oh so popular bohemian trend. 
I quite liked Look 8 which was a black sweater and a green skirt featuring with tassels. I can picture  Natalie Massanet in the look. Look 22 was a silver metallic poncho with tassels. Short shorts and above the knee sandals embroidered with the pearl embroideries previously featured in the collection. 

I loved the playful nature of the looks. They were all fun and wearable and there was a variety to choose from. I was captivated by the hand painted looks, the embroidered looks and especially the final look which reminded me of Michael van der Ham’s designs. This was perhaps my favourite OSMAN collection.

Jonathan Saunders // Spring 2015 //

Glaswegian Jonathan Saunders’ Spring 2015 featured Japanese inspired clothing with a strong and feminine woman in mind. Perhaps Scarlett Johansson in ‘Under the Skin’ - the movie’s score served as the soundtrack for the show at the Britain Museum.
One of my favourite looks in the collection was Look 9, worn by top model Binx Walton. A pale blue collarless shirt with white stripes, featured a brown overlapping leaf motif decorated with a gold embellished branch. High waisted trousers tied at the waist showed off the Japanese undertone in the form of origami. 

Mixing different materials and textures was perfectly executed in the 39-piece collection. The looks with a hand painted colour-blocked cotton voile were my favourites. Jonathan doesn’t conform with most designers and is his entirely his own entity which I love and respect.
 Photo Credit: zimbio.com

David Koma // Spring 2015 //

Yes, yes, yes. David Koma presented an exceedingly exceptional collection at the BFC Courtyard Show Space at Somerset House during London Fashion Week. The Georgian designer is one of my favourites. His architecturally structured body con dresses provide a plethora of joy to my eyes.

The colours, the asymmetric hemlines, the sheer linings giving an exposition of skin. Look 13 was captivating. A baby blue and black knee length body con dress that featured a halter neck, cut-outs and a sheer organza overlay. Black ankle strap heels and a slicked back hair ‘do completed the models looks.

Every David Koma collection is great. But every other season, we get a show-stoppingly groundbreaking collection. This was one of those collections. Everything about it was fantastic.

Photo Credit: hji.co.uk

Danielle Romeril // Spring 2015 //

 Being an Irishman, I love seeing Irish designers on the London Fashion Week schedule (or any fashion week) and seeing what they have to offer. This season’s new addition to the schedule was Danielle Romeril. She presented at the BFC Presentation Space.

There was desert vibes from the collection - which was inspired by a camping trip to the Wicklow Mountains here in Ireland. One of the looks was an army green dress with camouflage panels. Sandals were added. As you know by now, sandals aren’t my favourite trend from the season. In fact I’d condemn them if I could. I did love the dress with the black bodice and the camouflage skirt with sheer details. A straw hat was added.

There was a wonderful coat that caught my eye. It had a wide variety of green in a camouflage print. Leg warmers and sandals were paired. I was mesmerised by the look. 

It was a superb London Fashion Week on-schedule display. I look forward to see seeing what’s next from Danielle. She is a star in the making.

Photo Credit: zimbio.com

Marios Schwab // Spring 2015 //

Folds, facets and frames were Marios Schwab’s inspirations for Spring 2015. A gorgeous cropped mac over a beige folded skirt provided a strong opening look.

Schwab’s apparent favourite colour teal was, of course, featured. Tunic dresses, suits and tops were done in this colour. White was another colour used. Marios also used a lot of prints this season. A signature sheer bodice with intricate sequin embroideries and a folded skirt with a framed print of a sculpture was the third taste of this rare sighting.

I thought there was too much going on with Look 20. The black sheer form fitting gown with sequin embroidery was lovely but I didn’t like the white floor length skirt paired with it. 

Overall it was a lovely show with a few disappointing looks.

Photo Credit: zimbio.com

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Paul Costelloe // Spring 2015 //

Paul Costelloe is a household name in Ireland. The designer is famous for his homeware range at nationwide chain store Dunnes Stores, his uniforms for British Airways, Aer Lingus and Delta, and his fun designs. The designer was formerly on London Fashion Week’s schedule every season but was absent for the past couple of years. This year he returned, and what a show he put on. 

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand was the venue for the comeback show. It was a 60’s-inspired collection - see beehive hair ‘dos and and high hemlines. There was an array of colours featured. Cornflour blue, pale mint green, navy and orange were all apart of Costelloe’s bright colour palette. 

This collection, in my opinion, would perfectly suit Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. These prim and proper outfits, have an ounce of sexy sweetness in thin without being too inappropriate for a royal. The collection, in fact, would look great on many people.

A stellar return from Mr. Costelloe. 

Mary Katrantzou // Spring 2015 //

I love Mary Katrantzou. She’s great. Her designs are fabulous and always have been. For Spring 2015 Mary showed on Sunday evening like she always does and she is a staple on the London Fashion Week calendar. At first I wasn’t head over heels about the collection but when I heard what the inspiration was and so close-up images, I was captivated.
The world 500 millions years ago inspired Mary for Spring. The super continent Pangaea and oceanic ridges were animated into Mary’s super collection. Anne Catherine Lacroix opened the show in a completely tonal look (a departure from Mary). My favourite Kirsten Owen walked down the volcanic runway (rubber chips) in a patchwork shimmering black top paired with taupe silk floor length wide leg trousers.
Tectonic plates and oceanic ridges were all laser cut and fashioned into gorgeous outfits. On others these were printed on dresses and trousers. Look 26 was an elaborate mini-dress festooned with ‘tectonic plates’. Other looks featured floral and fauna from Pangaea and Panthalassa.

Mary is developing the direction her designs are taking which is a wonderful thing. Hands down, the best collection from Mary to date.

Roksanda // Spring 2015 //

 Sandals are definitely a thing. Roksanda Illincic’s Spring 2015 collection - the label is now called Roksanda, featured the ghastly (in my opinion) accessories in an innovative way. I dismissed them and focused m attention on the colourful clothes. Blues, orange, pink and more.
 Signature colour-blocking was featured in Roksanda’s wonderful show. I loved the sharply tailored blazers and summer coats. They were ultra cool and very wearable statement pieces. My favourite was the aqua and cornflour blue coat with orange accents.

As the collection progressed we were greeted with vibrant printing. The finale look was a sheer navy dress with red and blue detailing. A silver waist cinching belt and architectural heels were added.
This was a superb effort from Roksanda. Another flawless collection from the Serbian designer. Continually impressive.

Photo Credit: thefashionspot.com & zimbio.com

Monday, December 29, 2014

Christopher Kane // Spring 2015 //

Christopher Kane linked past and present in his Spring 2015 collection. The collection was dedicated to his Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson who passed away earlier this year. There was a sombre mood this season with playful and sexy yet elegant outbursts,

Ropes and cords were an integral part of the collection, linking past and present, and the beginning of the collection to the end of the collection. Kane told Style.com’s Tim Blanks that they were multicoloured at the beginning but became very tonal towards the end. The final look was a sheer black dress festooned with black rope. 

Look 27 was a champagne coloured strapless dress which consisted of a duchesse satin bodice stuffed with tulle. Look 33 was a burgundy leather jacket, and a duchesse satin skirt with an organza overlay pinned to it.

This was an amazing collection from an amazing designer. His former professor would’ve been proud to see such an splendid collection.

Erdem // Spring 2015 //

Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North served as Erdem Moralioglu’s inspiration for Spring 2015. What a marvellous collection it was. This was his best collection to date, the best collection of the week, and the collection that bagged him the British Fashion Award for Best Womenswear Designs

The showspace was a black boardwalk lined with luscious foliage. Erdem, like Mary Katrantzou, is ever evolving from when they first broke on to the fashion scene. The Erdem girl is harder edged than she was a few years ago. There is a sexiness exuded by the clothes this season that is more noticeable than in previous collections. 

At the end we were treated to 7 fabulous gowns Erdem style. I’m expecting to see Michelle Dockery at the Golden Globes or SAG Awards in one of these stunning numbers. Look 34 perhaps. There was an unexpected appearance of plumage, which was welcomed in open arms.

The best collection of London Fashion Week. Everything about this was wonderful.

Sunday, December 28, 2014

Ashley Williams // Spring 2015 //

I don’t think I’ve heard of a stranger inspiration than Vietnamese ladies of the night in the 1960’s trying to emulate American cultures into their clothing but kind of doing it wrong. This was Ashley Williams inspiration for Spring 2015. What an interesting and fun result it was.

I loved the logo and sketches emblazoned on the articles of clothing. Look 6 was a funky sweater with a Coca-Cola can in Vietnamese decked out in shades and headphones. Harem trousers were also worn. The Oriental vibes were definitely recognisable in the kitsch clothes. This was an interesting theme that I hope to see more in her future collections. It seems to suit Ashley’s eclectic taste.

This is Ashley’s first solo showcase outside of the Fashion East presentation and what a great show it was. The Topshop Show Space on Gray’s Inn Road served as the showspace for the event, which saw Brit It-girls Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Pixie Geldof and Laura Bailey in attendance. What a wonderful display it was.
Ashley Williams (pictured above)
A-list fans Laura Bailey, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, and Pixie Geldof.

Helen Lawrence // Spring 2015 //

Helen Lawrence first came on my radar when she presented as apart of Fashion East for Fall 2014 during London Fashion Week. She presented alongside Louise Alsop and Ashley Williams. Helen was undoubtedly my favourite. I did really like the others but there was something about Helen’s creations that I loved. Helen gained a BA in Textiles at the Chelsea College of Art and Design and an MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins. The well learned designer is destined for great things.
For Spring 2015 Helen continued to show for Fashion East. I was yet again mesmerised by her collection. Helen’s girl is ‘normal’ but with ‘a strange curiosity’. That idea was emulated into the beautiful yet peculiar clothing. One signature piece of Helen’s collections is the wobbly shapes. This is my favourite aspect of the collections. It’s so quirky and interesting to gawk at. 
Latex and wool were a stark contrast but were perfectly juxtaposed. The colours also enhanced this effect. Bubblegum pink, dusty rose, green, pale blue, black and white and yellow were all on Helen’s colour palette for Spring 2015. Look 16 was my favourite. A halter neck sports bra and a matching micro mini wool skirt were detailed with wobbly shaped latex panelling. The latex was both under and over the top and skirt. 

This was a collection. I adored every look from start to finish and cannot wait to see what she has in store for us for Fall 2015.

Photo Credit: stylebistro.com

Saturday, December 27, 2014

Claire Barrow // Spring 2015 //

Claire Barrow is a cool designer. It sounds very cheesy, but she is. Her funky clothes are soon to be lusted after by everyone aware of London Fashion Week next season as she shows her first on schedule show outside of Fashion East and prior presentations. 

Barrow is sponsored by the Topshop funded NEWGEN and this is her second season apart of the scheme. NEWGEN have a space at the showrooms in London Fashion Week. I saw a handful of Claire’s Fall 2014 pieces and was enamoured by the hand painted leather goods. This is an interesting idea and one that was original and frankly intriguing. I have since jumped on the Claire Barrow bandwagon and frantically searched for images of her Spring 2015 presentation (titled ’Tender Love and Care’) right after it was shown.

For Spring Claire was inspired by dystopian art and literature and her love for storytelling provided a great collection. Claire’s story was that a virus was engulfing the Western world in a evolutionary reversal which transforms humans into household pets. Only women with medical expertise aren’t harmed by the horror and are seen as goddesses by the affected and this collection is their uniform. Screen prints and hand painted methods are the way Claire expressed this concept.

The hand painted illustrations were childlike yet menacing and frightening. Shades of blue, pink and gold perfectly complemented the monochromatic theme. The lambskin, silk and cottons the best materials to use, as they add to the collection but do not demand all of the attention.

This is a wonderful collection, maybe a tad creepy but what’s not to love. The clothes at first seem unconventional, but upon closer inspection they appear quite wearable. It’s the second inspection that furthers my love for most collections and it wasn’t any different here. A tour-de-force outing for Claire Barrow.

Ryan Lo // Spring 2015 //

Ryan Lo is a self taught designer according to the London Fashion Week’s website. Lo learned through watching informative Youtube videos. He also “honed his skills with Charles Anastase” - an LFW reknowned designer. His funky and kitsch clothes that wouldn’t look out of place on a Tokyo street style blog. 
For Spring 2015 we descended to the sea for the show. The Little Mermaid vibes were ever-present and suited Lo’s personality perfectly. His favourite colour - pink, was of course accented in this beautiful 15-piece short but sweet collection. The NEWGEN supported designer’s references to the hit Disney film and other features of the vast ocean were perfected in a fun and animated way.
Sequin embroidered octopi will defin


itely be a big hit with with the street style stars during Fall 2015 fashion month. Susie Bubble is someone I would envision in these awesome clothes. Delicate materials were ruffled to give the effect of coral at the bed of the sea. This was done in a wide variety of colours. 

The clothes were extremely wearable. They would suit a cocktail party, a photo call, the dainty kaftans wouldn’t look out of place on the luscious beaches of St. Barths in the Caribbean. The heels that were paired with the looks were an ideal companion and were the icing on the colourful cake. 
Lo is going to be showing on schedule at the BFC Courtyard Show Space in Somerset House during London Fashion Week in February. This is Ryan’s first season presenting an independent catwalk show outside of his presentations and display during Fashion East. I am certainly looking forward to it.

Photo Credit: Zimbio

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Barbara Casasola // Spring 2015 //

One of my favourite designers at London Fashion Week is Brazilian-born London-based Barbara Casasola. Known for sexy and ladylike designers, her Spring 2015 collection was simply sublime.There was something for everyone in this collection. Bodycon, a few summer coats, an array of colours, skirts, dresses and trousers. 

Barbara opened with a black sleeveless gown knotted at the waist. Look 3 was an orange one shoulder gown with a side split. Look 14 was a grey sweater with a floor sweeping white sheer pleated skirt. Look 15 was the same but in black. Burnt orange, rust and peach continue to prove orange is the new black for Spring 2015.

The finale look was an olive green top with spaghetti straps and a finely pleated skirt. Another show stopping collection from Barbara.

Eudon Choi // Spring 2015 //

Korean designer Eudon Choi is always one to watch during London Fashion Week. His presentation is always one to look forward to. For Spring artist Georgia O'Keefe served as inspiration and this provided an interesting take on the masculine/feminine blend.

Prim and proper outfits which were sharply tailored were sent down the BFC Courtyard Show Space runway. Black, navy, and white dominated Choi's colour palette with a rare burst of colour from pale pink, powder blue or floral looks. This was a disappointing palette for Spring.

In my opinion the floral looks were the best of the collection. Those looks were easily my favourites. If you're familiar with Georgia O'Keefe's work you will be aware that she has a lot of work including flowers. If Choi had featured more of this, I believe, the collection would have been in full bloom.

Toga // Spring 2015 //

I was so excited to attend the Toga presentation during London Fashion Week. The label first came on radar last season when they presented on-schedule for the first time. The presentation was held at the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel this season.

On paper the collection is absolutely bonkers. In person it paid off. I looked at the clothes as separates rather than whole outfits, which for more conservative folk is advised. Yasuko Furuta designs for complex women who live in chaos. This MO is emulated into the clothing perfectly.

I found the mixture of materials rather captivating. Tulle and plastic were fused together to form beautiful clothes. Reflective motifs were added to looks for extra flair. Look 22 was a hand painted mini dress with an outward flutter. Tulle trousers and a collar made the ensemble look like a one-piece. Patchwork was evident in the collection, a trend to have emerged from fashion month. 

Orla Kiely // Spring 2015 //

My first show on Saturday morning during London Fashion Week was Irish designer Orla Kiely's presentation. Orla has been showing on schedule for the past four seasons and has gotten better each season.

To the Vinyl Factory it was for the presentation. Artist Alia Penner and the others painted the set as the models showcased the collection. They carried fake flowers and placed them in soil pots.

Floral prints, pretty pinks, lovely yellows and black and whites stood out during the show. Look 17's top, Look 14 and Look 18 were my favourites. The bags from the collection were beautiful. Floral shaped and embossed creations were toted around by the models.

A great prim, proper and elegant collection from Orla Kiely.





Christopher Raeburn // Spring 2015 //

I was most excited about attending Christopher Raeburn's show during London Fashion Week. I'm always looking forward to seeing what he's going to present. I was delighted to see easy, wearable, and festival ready outfits.

The collection titled 'Ascent' explores the lightness and freedom of flight. Original MIG fighter pilot suits were combined with silk organza and fashioned into jakcets, dresses and separates. 

Weather patterns were printed on some outfits referencing to the theme. Meteorological maps were also printed on the ensembles. The animal mascot this season was a turtle. I love this about Raeburn's shows. I wasn't sold on the sandals worn by models but they were perfectly suited to the looks they were accompanied by. The rucksacks were awesome.

A great 26-piece collection from Christopher Raeburn. What more could you want?

Bora Aksu // Spring 2015 //

Bora Aksu was the first show on my London Fashion Week schedule. I was extremely excited to attend the London-based Turkish designers show as he is always on my watch list for LFW.
I was lucky enough to get an advance preview of the outfits during the run-through. The first eight models came out and sat or stood at the top of the runway. As the music began to play each model individually cat-walked. The inspiration was Maria Taglione, a ballerina. White was predominantly used to keep the lightness of Marie's dance.

Look 25 was a purple crochet top over a laser cut skirt. The look featured a floor length veil with a black panel. Silver earrings completed the look. The fine details and craftsmanship are main factors as to why I loved the show. I was enamoured by the colours, materials, and skills showcased at Friday morning's presentation.



Faustine Steinmetz // Spring 2015 //

One of my first shows at London Fashion Week in September was Faustine Steinmetz. The French designer told London Fashion Week's website that she is 'exploring the gap between physical garments you buy in the shops and the image you have of these same garments'. I was amazed that each of the denim pieces were hand made from scratch and no electricity was used. This laborious effort produced a wonderful collection.

The threadbare denims were fascinating. There was frayed, distressed, tattered, crushed and deconstructed looking outfits, all of which were created by hand. The clothes were hand-dyed, knotted, embroidered and painted. All of these techniques were used to give the texture and appearance of denim.
Faustine is definitely a designer to look out for during the next fashion week.